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Forum Index : Electronics : I'm ordering mppt and inverter PCBs - who wants what?

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Cobbler

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Posted: 08:06am 05 Apr 2023
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Thanks Poida, that makes is a lot simpler and quicker to start testing. Based on the code, I am assuming the pot wiper is connected to A0 and the pot ends between +5V and Gnd, right?
Cheers Michael
 
poida

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Posted: 08:07am 05 Apr 2023
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yes. all analog inputs go from 0 to 5V
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
Murphy's friend

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Posted: 08:27am 05 Apr 2023
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  Cobbler said  Good

The fun part will be making suitable chokes for both the MPPT and the Inverter, which will require a good inductance tester. I am thinking of using the design you posted here:

https://www.thebackshed.com/forum/ViewTopic.php?TID=8542&PID=106022#106022

I will need to spend a bit of time going through the thread to better understand all the inductor parameter calculations and tester requirements. Fortunately, I already have a suitable DSO for the project and that is a major obstacle out of the way.


Goodness, you have dredged a long way back for that

There were quite a few different saturation testers discussed on this forum over time.
I like warpspeed's design because:
It does not require programming anything (I'm no good at that)
It continually bounces current back and forth through the coil automatically. No need to fiddle with switches or connections, just watch the scope trace as the input voltage is slowly wound up.
With the Aerosharp C core choke the saturation knee is quite sharp, not so with the toroidal powdered iron choke I tested recently. But its not possible to have a removable test coil for that type core.

But, it requires a hall sensor that senses DC.

And it requires a test coil with many turns of smaller diameter wire than the planned choke coil.

Such a test coil would saturate at a relatively low current, one can then interpolate by the turns ratio when the planned choke coil would saturate without having to rely on a power source capable of many hundreds of Amps.

I use a power supply capable of 20V & 6A flat out.
 
Cobbler

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Posted: 09:47am 05 Apr 2023
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When I started searching the forum for inductor saturation testers I remembered warpspeed's hand sketched idea from a few years ago because I really liked the current recycling feature so I was happy to find a full circuit design based on that. My understanding is that a suitably rated (or shunt assisted) LEM current sensor should be compatible with that circuit and allow testing the fully wound choke at full current but I am only guessing at the moment. Please correct me if I am wrong.

While I would really like to fully build one of these saturation testers, I will try Poida's suggestion using the simple nano based tester and see how I go with that. Fortunately, I have a pretty capable power supply that can handle up to 14A at 50V and all I need is a few large caps, a LEM and a HY4008 to get started.
Cheers Michael
 
mab1
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Posted: 10:13pm 05 Apr 2023
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In case anyone else was looking for Poida's serial LCD conversion using a nano - here's the link:-
https://www.thebackshed.com/forum/ViewTopic.php?TID=13650&PID=194228#194228#194228

rather handy as i have a few old LCDs to reuse; two 20x4 and two 40x2 which you don't see too often.
 
poida

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Posted: 10:24pm 05 Apr 2023
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  Cobbler said  .. I have a pretty capable power supply that can handle up to 14A at 50V and all I need is a few large caps, a LEM and a HY4008 to get started.


Any FET will do, choose low voltage, for lowest Rds(on)
There must be something lying around.
A lot of FETs will nearly fully conduct from the 5V driven by the nano.

Maybe you have a dead UPS. Inside will be some 50V FETs with a good low
ON resistance.

And you can do it without a current sensor too.
I got very useful results, that let me finalise the inverter choke
I used for the house inverter by using a single strand of about 1mm
copper wire as a current sense. It was about 30mm long.
You first determine the resistance (put 10 Amps through it and see the voltage)
and then use 1x gain on the probe, turn up the vertical gain on the DSO
and it works.
Put the wire on the ground connected lead that goes to the inductor.
All probe connections must use the same ground point



Edited 2023-04-06 08:32 by poida
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
Cobbler

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Posted: 01:49am 06 Apr 2023
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  poida said  A lot of FETs will nearly fully conduct from the 5V driven by the nano.

I have a few IRFB3006 which will hopefully work well enough driven by the nano.

Thank you for the sketch and wire shunt suggestion. I will start experimenting as soon as I get a chance.
Cheers Michael
 
poida

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Posted: 03:29am 14 Apr 2023
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Cobbler:

I did a bit more playing with the choke tester.
I added a TLP250 opto isolated gate drive to the hack
and it now drives the Gate to 12V, very fully making it switch
ON with the lowest resistance.

I found I could not get much more than maybe 90 Amps into a choke.
After this, it goes to 475 Amps...
So the 5V or more likely the 4.7 or whatever out of the Nano/Uno was
not enough for more in depth explorations of choke saturation.

475 Amps, 12V implies a total resistance of 25 mOhm which
includes the 6 mOhm from the FET I use.


Everyone:

here is the "serial LCD" I refer to

https://www.thebackshed.com/forum/ViewTopic.php?TID=13650&P=9#194228

Easy to build and so useful for my experiments and builds.
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
Bryan1

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Joined: 22/02/2006
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Posted: 06:05am 14 Apr 2023
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Mike came for a drive up this morning to get that tape and connectors and kindly brought up an aerosharp for me to play with    

We talked about that 6.5X4mm(not 5 Mike) is 26 mm squared so it should be good for my first inverter. Now this wire came out of that E-core and in order to use it I had to anneal the wire first using my 2 ring crab burner and using a HP reg to get the right flame and left it heating for about 2 hours turning the core so all sides had a chance to get that red colour which what we want.





We did work out for that 15 turns we talked about for 24 volts I'll need over 5 metres to get the turns. I found atleast 5 metres of heatshrink to insulate the copper wire so the primary will be a few colours  

Now as I have a heap of fets I reckon it reckon I'll be doing everything I can not to join that blown fets club  

I do have this board





I do think I have seen this type of board used before and the best part I reckon I have all the components here to make it and any help will be nice as no info came with this board.

Cheers Bryan

Cheers Bryan
Edited 2023-04-14 16:13 by Bryan1
 
pd--
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Joined: 11/12/2020
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Posted: 09:55am 16 Apr 2023
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Sum of the Arduino Nano clones are just rubbish

I just loaded up a nano clone with the MPPT code and plugged it into the brain board
and was greeted with a LCD of random characters & symbols .

So i loaded up a simple little " hello world " program using the standard serial libraries and still junk.

So after lots of fluffing around the cro came out and the serial timing was up the sh**t

it was around that time that i realized the CPU had no markings and the 16mhz xtal was missing from the nano.

it turns out the chip was running at 5.3 MHZ
so if i set the baud rate to 28800 i get a serial port that runs at 9600
i haven't bothered seeing what else is wrong with it.


so if all else fails throw away the nano and get another one
 
poida

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Posted: 12:48pm 16 Apr 2023
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pd--
first I've heard of this.
Thanks for the heads up
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
poida

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Posted: 01:06pm 16 Apr 2023
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Bryan1:
here is a schematic of something close to what you have.
It will help you understand the various functions
(low voltage shut down, over DC voltage shutdown, the two
current limits etc)



That board you have uses the EG002 module to provide FET Gate drive
and so it is prone to out of spec. voltages appearing on the
IR2110 outputs. This can cause blowups.

You could build a minimal version of this, without all the
above functions. That is what I would do.
Just put the AC voltage feedback stuff in, a 5V supply,
a 12V supply. Put a socket where the EG002 module goes too.
Disable the over current stuff on the EG002.
This will be educational and be fine for low power tests.
5V supply to the EG002 will start the inverter.
No 5V will stop it.

If you want to do high power, I would want some TVS Diodes on the 4
Gate drive outputs, located close to the EG002 and mounted such that they prevent negative voltages reaching the EG002 outputs (1LO, 2LO, 1HO, 2HO)
The high outputs 1HO and 2HO are NOT referenced to DC ground. They are referenced
to respectively VS1 and VS2.
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
Cobbler

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Joined: 25/01/2023
Location: Australia
Posts: 14
Posted: 07:05pm 17 Apr 2023
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  poida said  I did a bit more playing with the choke tester.
I added a TLP250 opto isolated gate drive to the hack and it now drives the Gate
to 12V, very fully making it switch ON with the lowest resistance...

Thank you for taking the time to upgrade and test the circuit with an optocoupler
and letting me know ahead of my tests. Looking at the MOSFET charts I can see most
of them need at least 8V GS to start conducting close to their rated Drain current.

I should have a couple of spare TLP250 already but I need to order 4 additional
Sendust ring cores and 4x E70 Ferrite cores before I can start testing. I have
decided to order 2 of the distributed gap type B66371Q0400K187 with 0.77mm G2
and 0.4mm G3 air gaps and 2 non gapped B66371G0000X187 cores to avoid having to
grind a gap myself. This combo provides the smallest commercially available gap
and I hope it will be suitable for the choke.

I have ordered a few TIP41/TIP42 Totem pole transistors for the Inverter project
but in the final build I would have liked to use the better spec.
2SA2040/2SC5707(2SC5980) complementary bipolar pair used by wiseguy.

Unfortunately, 2SA2040 is now showing as obsolete/ 0 stock with all major
distributors (except Rochester Electronics) and 2SC5707(2SC5980) are only available
in the TL-E surface mount package (except from a couple of non authorised
distributors (https://www.digipart.com/part/2SC5980-E) so I have spent a bit of time
looking for alternatives (see list below).

I know wiseguy's design uses isolated supplies with the 2SA2040/2SC5707 transistors
which have a VCE of only 50V while the TIP41C/TIP42C have a VCE of 100V so I would
like some help understanding the 100V rating specified for these parts.

I realise VS1 and VS2 alternately swing between VBAT and GND and the high side Totem
poles only see a maximum of 18V DC between Collector of TIP41 and Collector of TIP42
as they are floating above VS1/VS2 and are referenced to these lines (instead of GND)
so I would expect even transistors with a VCE of 50V should be suitable. Am I missing
something here?

In any case, here are the alternative parts I have found for the Totem pole pair. Any
comments on their suitability would be welcome, thanks.

The following parts have an fT of 330MHz and very fast rise and fall times:

onsemi 2SC6144SG NPN Transistor, 10A (cont)/ 13A (pulse), 50V, Low VCE(sat) NPN TO-220F-3FS
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/1844163
https://docs.rs-online.com/5734/0900766b81709b4d.pdf

onsemi 2SA2222SG PNP Transistor, 10A (cont)/ 13A (pulse), 50V, Low VCE(sat) NPN TO-220F-3FS
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/1844158
https://docs.rs-online.com/c554/0900766b81709b4c.pdf


The following parts have an fT of 60MHz (NPN) and 40MHz (PNP) whereas the TIP41/TIP42
fT is only 3MHz but if I am reading the chart correctly, the rise and fall times
appear to be only slightly faster at 5A IC.

https://docs.rs-online.com/e9d0/0900766b8160e104.pdf

onsemi D44H8G NPN Transistor, 10A (c)/ 20A (p), 60V, 3-Pin TO-220AB
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/5450163

onsemi D45H8G PNP Transistor, 10A (c)/ 20A (p), 60V, 3-Pin TO-220AB
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/5450185

onsemi D44H11G NPN Transistor, 10A (c)/ 20A (p), 80V, 3-Pin TO-220AB
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/6255076

onsemi D45H11G PNP Transistor, 10A (c)/ 20A (p), 80V, 3-Pin TO-220AB
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/5450179

The semiconductor shortages (and prices) seem to be getting worse day by day with
some components showing lead-times into next year so I better get cracking with my
projects before it becomes impossible to source the parts.
Edited 2023-04-18 05:17 by Cobbler
Cheers Michael
 
wiseguy

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Posted: 12:07am 18 Apr 2023
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Recently I went through the same process to find suitable transistors/alternatives.

I found these at LCSC and bought 40 of each as I saw the end looming.

Their transistors to date such as HY4008 and HY5608 are always genuine and meet spec.

The two I bought are below but I just checked and there is nil stock left now.
NPN Manufacturer, UTC(Unisonic Tech), Mfr. Part # 2SD1804L-T-TM3-T, LCSC Part # C85223
PNP Manufacturer, onsemi, Mfr. Part # 2SA2040-E, LCSC Part # C165093

With regard to your question about the hundred volt rating, it means that between collector and emitter they will not break down at 100V (also check that max vcb is not exceeded) providing the current max is not exceeded or the internal temperature rise due to dissipation from a linear function is not exceeded and they will survive indefinitely. This rating is from design and the transistors will function just fine at lower VCE voltages.

If I had to choose between two transistors with essentially the same specs but one had a 100V max rating and the other had a 50V max rating and they were for driving gates at 12-15V I would choose the 100V version. Why? Because having that transistor in my parts bin means if I ever have an 80V application I can use them - nothing to do with the required 12-15V application.

In the application with a 12V-15V supply for driving gates on and off it is not really a very demanding task and any transistor with a max collector voltage of 20V or more could be used.
If you ever look at Zetex transistors for demanding gate drives they have a range of high current devices at quite low voltage specs such as 20/25/30/40V etc.

I cant really comment further on the other devices you suggested as I have time constraints at the moment.  Get cracking and buy what you need now - I believe it will still get worse before it gets better.
If at first you dont succeed, I suggest you avoid sky diving....
Cheers Mike
 
poida

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Posted: 12:14am 18 Apr 2023
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Even the TIP41/42 combo will work fine.
The primary reason I like the totem pole drive, located close to the FETs
is the isolation it provides from the large voltage swings coming out
of the Gates (due to dV/dt or dI/dt) that can not pass back to the
gate drive IC output pins.
This makes the power board and inverter controller board much more robust
and able to take unreasonably high peak loads without failure.

The speed of Gate drive is not so much a problem, more something to optimise
if one has the time or interest. This can reduce some power losses.

I am sure your build will be quite efficient and have low switching losses no matter
which transistors you choose.
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
wiseguy

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Posted: 03:37am 18 Apr 2023
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  poida said  Even the TIP41/42 combo will work fine.

Agreed almost any half reasonable buffer is better than no buffer
  poida said   The primary reason I like the totem pole drive, located close to the FETs is the isolation it provides from the large voltage swings coming out
of the Gates (due to dV/dt or dI/dt) that can not pass back to the
gate drive IC output pins.

I prefer to think of the buffer as a low impedance device rather than an isolator.
The gate of the mosfet is influenced by dVdT events on the Drain.
If there were no means of controlling (limiting) the gate voltage the FET can be permanently damaged.
A low impedance buffer stage with minimal inductance/resistance helps to achieve this.
This is why longer cables connecting drive signals to the FETs are a bad plan due to increase R and L.
The buffer stage is typically a very low impedance that either drives and holds the Gate at +12 or at 0V.
If the impedance between the buffer and the gate is too high then dVdT effect on the gate may inadvertently allow the FET to turn on.
This may or may not be catastrophic depending on whether it causes a shoot through event.
The Gate is easily damaged by exceeding the max limits which are typically +/- 25 or 30V but can be as low as +/-5V.
A 15/18V Transorb directly across the FETs gate and source connections should prevent the FET from excess V gate damage.
The Buffer stage should also be in close proximity to the FETs Gate and source so it too can clamp the gate at either 12V/0V.
The Buffer stage provides some(more) protection to upstream parts which are more easily damaged when output FETs combust.
A diode can be placed across the gate resistance (anode to gate) to lower the gate impedance when the buffer is at 0V
When output FETs combust, the 48V on their Drain can feed 48V out the Gate back to the buffers driver ICs etc.
The Transorb across the FETs gate and source will not protect the FET from excessive Drain over current or over voltage abuse.

I did not like my previous attemt to describe this concisely after I re read it.

  poida said  This makes the power board and inverter controller board much more robust and able to take unreasonably high peak loads without failure.

The speed of Gate drive is not so much a problem, more something to optimise
if one has the time or interest. This can reduce some power losses.

I am sure your build will be quite efficient and have low switching losses no matter
which transistors you choose.

Also agreed.
But if for instance the buffers were on the driver board and longish connecting cables then the increased gate impedance of the cable is not be enough to guarantee good protection to the gate, even if the damage will still be minimised to the up stream bits.
Edited 2023-04-19 20:28 by wiseguy
If at first you dont succeed, I suggest you avoid sky diving....
Cheers Mike
 
flyingfishfinger
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Joined: 12/09/2020
Location: United States
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Posted: 10:14pm 19 Apr 2023
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  pd-- said  Sum of the Arduino Nano clones are just rubbish

I just loaded up a nano clone with the MPPT code and plugged it into the brain board
and was greeted with a LCD of random characters & symbols .

So i loaded up a simple little " hello world " program using the standard serial libraries and still junk.

So after lots of fluffing around the cro came out and the serial timing was up the sh**t

it was around that time that i realized the CPU had no markings and the 16mhz xtal was missing from the nano.

it turns out the chip was running at 5.3 MHZ
so if i set the baud rate to 28800 i get a serial port that runs at 9600
i haven't bothered seeing what else is wrong with it.


so if all else fails throw away the nano and get another one


Will add to this. My Nano clones don't have the full advertised flash space

I ran out in the low 90% trying to flash the MPPT code. I got around the issue by truncating all the menu wordings to the minimal recongnizable abbreviations and saved ~5% space, then it fit. On a fun note, using software I2C somehow saves another couple percent over hardware I2c (weird!)

R
 
Ziki_the
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Joined: 13/04/2023
Location: Yugoslavia
Posts: 39
Posted: 06:23am 24 Apr 2023
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Hello everyone i'm fresh on forum.

Is it possible to order boards for Mppt?  If so, what is the procedure?
Shipping would go to Serbia...

Thanks
Pozdrav iz Srbije
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
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Posts: 2498
Posted: 08:23am 26 Apr 2023
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Some of you may find this useful, it works with the Nanoverter serial display. Poida might confirm if it is compatible with the Picoverter. It is much simpler to put together than just using wires and hot snot. It includes brightness and contrast adjustments and looks more pro too I think.


Madness Nanoverter LCD piggyback.zip











There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
poida

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Joined: 02/02/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1418
Posted: 12:39am 27 Apr 2023
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  Ziki_the said  Hello everyone i'm fresh on forum.

Is it possible to order boards for Mppt?  If so, what is the procedure?
Shipping would go to Serbia...

Thanks


Sorry to say I have sold all mppt boards.
I have sent boards to UK, Italy, Belgium, France so
Serbia might be no problem.
Typical cost was $35 AUD for postage.

I don't want to order 5 more boards just for you
since the cost of freight per board can be rather high.
It's far better to order 20 boards.
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
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