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Forum Index : Electronics : Inverter PCB’s

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renewableMark

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Posted: 07:46am 24 Apr 2018
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Thanks mate.

Edit I'll bloody take that back, link is stuffed.

I'll work it out.
this might work

Nup didn't work either.

Anyone looking for it go to products....top area has a tab for nano... click that... under buy it now has a getting started tab.

Cheers, cheers, time for beers.Edited by renewableMark 2018-04-25
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 07:52am 24 Apr 2018
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Try these
Nano
LCD

Introduction Edited by Madness 2018-04-25
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Tinker

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Posted: 10:04am 24 Apr 2018
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Thanks for posting that Gary. I ordered that nano & screen after watching that utube.

Lets see if I can prove that saying about old dogs wrong

I just wanted the nano to learn about the programming side of it.
Klaus
 
Madness

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Posted: 12:15pm 24 Apr 2018
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A word of warning Klaus, once you start playing with Microcontrollers your eyes will be opened to a whole new world. Once you get your head around the basics it is so easy to do so much with something so cheap but so powerful.

There are so many examples of code on the net and you take a bit of this and bit that and do what you want. My first project with an Arduino was to replace the dead pump controller in my Solar Hot Water System. It just needed 2 sensors, an SSR and an Arduino, a little bit of code to tell it that when the temperature of the panels rose 6 degrees above the bottom of the tank it turned on, when the difference dropped to less than 3 degrees it turns off. That has been running for perfectly for over 4 years now. I added some other bits to the code to circulate water if the panels dropped to near freezing to prevent frost damage, but we don't get frost. Just tried to find the code but it is on my old computer that I can't be bothered to turn on ATM.

With the serial displays, there are 2 different addresses used. This will save pulling some hair out. 0x27 & 0x3F


// Start the LCD display library
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); // Set the LCD I2C address

// Start the LCD display library
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x3F, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); // Set the LCD I2C address


Edited by Madness 2018-04-25
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Madness

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Posted: 11:38pm 24 Apr 2018
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Unless someone can see something I have not this is the final version of the Inverter Control PCB. I have added a connection to allow an RS 485 Communivation Module in the future, a Piezo Beeper and tidied up tracks since the last version posted.

2018-04-25_103500_Inverter_Control__PCB.pdf Edited by Madness 2018-04-26
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
yahoo2

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Posted: 11:57pm 24 Apr 2018
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I think the file has gone awol

I am getting a 404 file not found error

I traced most of the tracks in your last version it looked pretty close to what I was comparing them to (although one was a prototype board of mine and not proven)

I cant check your hole position and component layout for mistakes, the only thing i can look for is accidental modifications since the last board. Edited by yahoo2 2018-04-26
I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
 
Madness

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Posted: 12:36am 25 Apr 2018
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The file name had + in it and that seems to have thrown a spanner in the works, renamed it seems to work now. What can I do to make it easier for you to read hole and component things Yahoo?
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
yahoo2

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Posted: 01:38am 25 Apr 2018
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  Madness said   What can I do to make it easier for you to read hole and component things Yahoo?


nothing, I have loaned out my computer with dex and all my component libraries on it so i am a bit screwed. Things are a bit of a mess here at the moment. i upgraded my status from "brothel" to "bomb-site" last week.

I might have a look at your component list and find some datasheets tonight.

Are there links that are plated or riveted through the board? or do they need to be drilled at the factory and then soldered afterwards? I am looking at the ones under the 5watt resistor.

I presume you are using a socket to stand the nano off the board.

I like the fan controls.

OK I will look at it tonight.
I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
 
Madness

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Posted: 02:34am 25 Apr 2018
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I have tried to avoid Vias as much as posible however the few that are there are drilled and plated through by the manufaturer. So all need to do is solder them.

Nano goes into the terminal strip same as Oztules uses for the EG8010 chips which are about 8mm high.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Madness

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Posted: 09:01am 25 Apr 2018
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Here is the Big Inverter PCB with 24 HY4008 MOSFETs, this is the same as I have been running for around 12 months now. I have put 16 - 24 components as you can vuild it with just 16 FETs if you want as Oztules has done they still will run just about anything with a 240 plug on it. I even have a list of components. Some people talk about screwing heatsinks to the PCB, I have not done this or seen any reason to do it, the MOSFETs are plenty robust enough to carry the weight of the very large heatsinks I use. The cround connection is by soldering cable to the copper where I have left a strip of copper unmasked across the full width of the PCB. I have done this by solder on 12 lenghts of wire with approximately 3mm diametre core then crimping them all to one lug at the other end.

The PCBs are 2oz copper 200 X 300MM, if you don't want to use the Totem Pole drivers there is provision to add jumpers and use the original design.

5 100uf 63v electrollytic cap
6 104 50v 2.54mm Caps
1 104 50v 5.08mm Caps
1 10uf 50v 5.08 Cap
4 10nF 103 3KV capacitors (Snubbers)
6 100V 10000UF Electrolytic (Can) Capacitor 35mmX60mm 
1 4.7uF 250V Metallized Polyester Film CBB Capacitor 475J,
2 CAPACITOR, SAFETY, 10NF, 250V, 20%
1 18V Zener
2 UF4007 Diode
1 Tip35c
4 Tip41c
4 Tip42c
16 - 24 HY4008w MOSFET
16 - 24 IN4148 Diodes

1 120 Ohm 5W Resistor
5 10K 0.5w resitor
4 47 Ohm 3W Resistors (Snubbers)
4 5k Ohm 0.5W
4 20 Ohm 0.5W
16 - 24 10 Ohm 0.5W
16 - 24 20K Ohm 0.5W
4 MOV's Metal Oxide Varistors (for helping protect against lightning)

2018-04-25_185453_8_KW_Power_TIP4142_-_PCB_all.pdf 2018-04-25_185514_8_KW_Power_TIP4142_-_PCB_TOP.pdf
2018-04-25_185611_8_KW_Power_TIP4142_-_PCB_BOT.pdf


There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Tinker

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Posted: 09:24am 25 Apr 2018
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  Madness said   Some people talk about screwing heatsinks to the PCB, I have not done this or seen any reason to do it, the MOSFETs are plenty robust enough to carry the weight of the very large heatsinks I use.


Gary, that heatsink weight was not the reason I screwed my heatsinks to the board.

I use the heatsink to carry the big currents directly to the drain backplate, not through the leg.
Of course, the source current has to go via the leg but now there is more room around them to place fat tracks for it.

Think about it from current point of view, PCB tracks will always have a greater resistance than the massive heatsink aluminium. And its way easier to connect heavy cable lugs to the heat sink.

Only the ground connects to the PCB and I have thick copper strips on top of it for that.

But, since your board works fine just leave it as it is, I am just pointing out why my boards are different.
Klaus
 
Tinker

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Posted: 09:39am 25 Apr 2018
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  Madness said   A word of warning Klaus, once you start playing with Microcontrollers your eyes will be opened to a whole new world. Once you get your head around the basics it is so easy to do so much with something so cheap but so powerful.




Yes I realise that, I do have a little project (lithium cell balancer) that uses a picaxe microcontroller but I was told recently that Altronics no longer sells them so I needed to find an alternative for other pending projects.

That picaxe did not have a brilliant resolution anyway when it came to cell logging.
Is there a site you know where the specs of that nano thingie are explained.

Like what is the max source/sink current of the outputs? Ditto max voltage there.
With the latter, I'm curious about that as the nano certainly will *not* handle the 60 odd volts of your battery so you will require a voltage divider for your low voltage shut down idea. And if the nano has a mediocre resolution then it can't sense small changes in battery voltage.
Klaus
 
ryanm
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Joined: 25/09/2015
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Posted: 09:57am 25 Apr 2018
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Link

Also worth noting that it can run at 3.3V instead of 5V and the 19ma operating current is for flat bicky. With the right code it can go down to micro-amps very easily.
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 10:16am 25 Apr 2018
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I'm prob reading the diagram wrong, why can't I see tracks for cap 9&10
Also cap 5 tracks look odd.
https://www.thebackshed.com/forum/uploads/Madness/2018-04-25_185453_8_KW_Power_TIP4142_-_PCB_all.pdf
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 10:42am 25 Apr 2018
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Mark the PDF'd that Designspark generates are not perfect, the odd tracks are in the middle of big areas of copper, the tracks are there to keep the program happy but it shows them in a differnet colour, I can do an all black version but you won't be able to make much sense of that. Have a look at the bottom version it will start to become clearer.

C9 & C10 have there pins connected to the very large negative and positive sheets of copper on the bottom of the PCN.

Klaus I was not refering to your reason for bolting the heatsinks to the PCB. I have been running this same design for a long time now and worked it very hard, I have never seen a reason to bolt the heatsinks to the PCB, particuarly when it is going to start interfering with the MOSFET pads and reduce the copper area.Edited by Madness 2018-04-26
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Madness

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Posted: 10:45am 25 Apr 2018
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  Tinker said  

Yes I realise that, I do have a little project (lithium cell balancer) that uses a picaxe microcontroller but I was told recently that Altronics no longer sells them so I needed to find an alternative for other pending projects.



Arduino won't be dissappearing any time in the next few decades.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Madness

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Posted: 10:48am 25 Apr 2018
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  ryanm said   Link

Also worth noting that it can run at 3.3V instead of 5V and the 19ma operating current is for flat bicky. With the right code it can go down to micro-amps very easily.


You need to very careful that you power supply is ripple free if doing that, supplying 12V to it is safer and for what I am doing here it would not matter if it used 1000ma.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
ryanm
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Posted: 11:03am 25 Apr 2018
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  Madness said  
  ryanm said   Link

Also worth noting that it can run at 3.3V instead of 5V and the 19ma operating current is for flat bicky. With the right code it can go down to micro-amps very easily.


You need to very careful that you power supply is ripple free if doing that, supplying 12V to it is safer and for what I am doing here it would not matter if it used 1000ma.


Good point. I was talking about the 328P chip in general and not really just the nano, but didn't make that clear. Haven't looked up the specs on the nano regulator specifically, but with most Arduinos 7V or above is recommended to have stable 5V at the chip, 12V pretty much what it is designed for. Just thought it worth noting because a lot of boards/systems/sensors recently are running at 3.3v. You would want to replace or remove the Vreg on the board though.
 
Madness

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Posted: 11:14am 25 Apr 2018
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There is a 5V and 3.3V regulators built into the Nano and they have output pins to utilise it so I do not get your point about removing or replace them?????????????
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
ryanm
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Posted: 11:44am 25 Apr 2018
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My bad, used to several other similar formats (pro mini/moteino/jeenode) where the smaller board only has one voltage for the whole thing. I've heard when I ASSUME things I make an ASS out of U and ME, but it looks like it's just me today!

For the removing it would be mainly to remove the (guessing) roughly 5ma Iq from the circuit. Been doing a lot of battery powered boards lately and when you've got a hammer in your hand long enough you don't want to pick up a screwdriver. As you said irrelevant given the toroid min current.
 
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