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Forum Index : Electronics : Little China inverter board came in today

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renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
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Posted: 08:31pm 03 Apr 2019
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Be careful with hairdryers and heat guns, they may use the copping of wave method for low settings.
Look here
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
BenandAmber
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Joined: 16/02/2019
Location: United States
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Posted: 04:55am 04 Apr 2019
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we found a nice case for our little inverter

notice we put some big caps in
Had to drill through the board and put 14 gauge wire up through works great

The donor is a 12 volt inverter we used in the RV to run a air conditioner

I was always impressed with this inverter it ran anything I plugged into it
Worked fine when I took it apart

But it had to go to make room or the low frequency

Have you guys ever seen a inverter like that with all the little toroids instead of square Transformers

Thanks for the tip renewableMark I'm going to go read up about that right now went and read the link my wife's hair dryer didn't affect the little inverter at all

ran just fine my heat gun is a genuine Chinese didn't affect it either I noticed my big circle saw would draw about 23 amps when it first kicked on just for a second thoughEdited by BenandAmber 2019-04-05
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 04:30am 24 Apr 2019
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Still very happy with the little inverter the only complaint I have is the choke is loud it's an e80 with a gap

Just was running my big circle saw with it the other day drawing 23 amps for a Split Second and 14 and 15 amps for long periods idle current is .37 amps after a few modifications

For something that cost under $30 and a bunch of parts I had laying around can't beat that with a stick
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 09:24am 24 Apr 2019
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Well done Ben,
you have a working machine.
Have you got some pics of how the choke is mounted?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
LadyN

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Joined: 26/01/2019
Location: United States
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Posted: 04:26pm 24 Apr 2019
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  BenandAmber said   Still very happy with the little inverter the only complaint I have is the choke is loud it's an e80 with a gap

Just was running my big circle saw with it the other day drawing 23 amps for a Split Second and 14 and 15 amps for long periods idle current is .37 amps after a few modifications

For something that cost under $30 and a bunch of parts I had laying around can't beat that with a stick


A true inspiration.

Would it be possible for you to upload a video (with audio) of the little inverter with nothing running at first (to hear the idle noise) and then with a heavy load you are comfortable with (like a hair dryer) and then go near the inverter again to hear the noise under load?
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:35pm 24 Apr 2019
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Don't mind to do that at all you just have to let me know where to upload a video to and you might have to give me instructions on how to do it

It's not a deal-breaker or anything I mean it's just a little bit loud

if you had it right beside of you and you is trying to watch TV late at night or something you know it might be a problem

if you had it in another room it's not loud enough to be a problem it is quite a bit louder than the case fan but you know I could have done something wrong on this ladyN

On my big inverter I used clear Auto Body fiberglass resin and encapsulated the whole thing so I'm thinking it won't be loud at all
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
LadyN

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Posted: 05:41pm 24 Apr 2019
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You could just upload to youtube and mark the video as private so that only those of us with a link to it can see it. There are other sites like mega that also allow you to upload video files but youtube makes it very easy
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:45pm 24 Apr 2019
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Renewablemark

It is white and it is in the very center it has quarter inch rubber underneath of it and the white is made out of flexible water pipe split open and cupped around the e80 core



Pretty poor excuse for a choke if you want to go off your work and a lot of the other excellent awesome people on here but I'm just a newbie and very poor so poor people have four ways

By the way it came with no Gap and I made the center Gap myself
so that could have something to do with how loud it is it is glued together on the outside legs

Hey if this core was three times as loud I would still be really impressed

I would encourage anyone else that wants a really powerful inverter cheap to follow what poida the great wrote to me earlier in this post

Thank you for taking the time to read my post and be interested in itEdited by BenandAmber 2019-04-26
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 10:37pm 24 Apr 2019
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If you look towards the bottom of this page you can see how to clamp them so they don't squeal.
Otherwise you can superglue them (with the spacers)

Be very careful if clamping, ferrite is incredibly brittle and will crack if you just look at it the wrong way.
Glue is safer but it's permanent, no changes easily then.Edited by renewableMark 2019-04-26
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
brucedownunder2
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Joined: 14/09/2005
Location: Australia
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Posted: 11:27pm 24 Apr 2019
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If its a help or consolation,

When I used my heat gun (hair dryer) on my powerstarW7 or my Torodial modification to the W7 , it made a fairly disturbing rattling noise.

I purposely kept it working on the heat shrink job ,but no problems. She returned to normal under ordinary loads and rattled and hummed when the Ol hairdryer was on ,

Bruce
Bushboy
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:03am 25 Apr 2019
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Mine doesn't get any louder with load just constant humming and the two outer legs are super glued together the center has a gap

the capacitors I ordered for this little tiny inverter came in and I put them in this evening



I'm happy with that idle current that big case fan is running constantly never goes off

I put the top on it testing over off to the RV to run all the power tools and a small air conditioner

Just to remind everyone it has four mosfets that's itEdited by BenandAmber 2019-04-26
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 12:56am 09 May 2019
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By the way the humming of the choke isn't bad at all with the lid on it

I mean if you was using it for a pillow it might bother you but other than that it's great

Still use it everyday at the RV under construction circle saw jigsaw sawzalls air conditioner and lights

A special thanks to

Poida the great Edited by BenandAmber 2019-05-18
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 08:06pm 23 May 2019
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First break down on the little inverter

When I would try to start my circle saw had a few other things running couple box fans lights radio it would kick off then kick right back on

I knew instantly what it was aluminum wire

The only suitable wire I had for winding my choke at the time was aluminum

I knew better because I didn't have special solder to solder to aluminum

So I used a big screw down connector and I used anti oxidation compound

Didn't work I took the inverter apart as you can see and that's exactly what it was

If you look hard in the picture above to the right of the choke you will see this connector

I would advise anyone not to use aluminum wire it's burnt a lot of houses down because of the connections

Back up and running for now but you never know about that aluminum wire it might be a day or week or month or I might even burn My RV down with the silly stuff

Unless you can make really good soldered aluminum connections

I would not even consider aluminum not even in a pinch

just wait to get some copper wire

As soon as I get time I'm taking it back apart and rewinding the chokeEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-26
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 04:42pm 24 May 2019
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I just seen your text ladyN

The big high speed case fan is louder than the hum of the choke

with the top on it is not very noticeable

The mosfets do not even get warm most of the time

unless I am running ac fans lights and power tools at same time

I dont know how to up load a video

I will try to figure it out or maybe have my son upload it to his YouTubeEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-26
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 10:51am 25 May 2019
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  BenandAmber said  

I knew instantly what it was aluminum wire

The only suitable wire I had for winding my choke at the time was aluminum



Ben, when I saw that picture of your choke you posted last month I "knew' it was going to be noisy .

Why don't you do you "monkey see, monkey do" thing and wind the choke with welding cable? One meter (3 feet) should do.
That works for others and I think you are still too close to the inverter modifying starting block to do something radically different.

A few observations: the winding needs to be physically *very* tight around the center core and locked in the winding space. 3 turns of welding cable of the right diameter does that automatically.
If you want to wind them like you saw in my pictures, I do that on a lathe, can't be done by hand winding.

Your idea of removing part of the center leg to create an air gap was short sighted. Yes, it does create a gap but it also weakens that part so you can no longer apply sufficient clamping pressure to stop the buzzing noise.
It would be much more clever to place a non metallic shim (strong card board, plastic, etc) between *all* three legs. No removing of any ferrite. This *must* be of exactly the same thickness at all legs or clamping pressure will crack the ferrite. The total 'gap' is now twice the thickness of one shim.

You do that 'air' gap to increase the saturation level but without saturation testing gear its a stab in the dark and probably not worth the trouble.
I ran a E65 ferrite choke for a long time in my first inverter, a power jack 8Kw module. That only had thin mylar tape (~0.1mm) between each leg. It reduced the humming and the inverter worked fine.

In case you are wondering where the buzzing noise comes from, the very powerful alternating magnetic field in the core tries to move the wires and the core halves. If loose, they will get noisy.
Klaus
 
Tinker

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Posted: 11:04am 25 May 2019
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And another observation on the picture above. I see you replaced the capacitors. Why do you think the original ones were soldered on the PCB?

They were to make the shortest path for the heavy currents from the caps to the mosfets.
Placing the caps on the opposite of the board and connecting them with long smallish wire just about negates what you tried to do.
Place the bigger caps next to where the were originally located and connect them with tinned copper strips to the board, that is easier than making short big wire links with lugs on the end.
Klaus
 
Solar Mike
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Posted: 11:26am 25 May 2019
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  BenandAmber said  

I knew instantly what it was aluminum wire

The only suitable wire I had for winding my choke at the time was aluminum



Using Al wire can be quite reliable, takes a couple of extra steps; the only reliable connection is a high pressure crimped joint eg to copper lug.
1: clean the wire with a stainless steel wire brush, one that hasn't been used on anything except aluminium, otherwise the wire gets contaminated.
2: apply jointing compound designed for Al wire.
3: crimp to your copper lug, soldering in any form isn't reliable and will fail with time.

The high power electrical industry uses copper to Al joints all the time, no problems.

Cheers
Mike


 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 11:24am 28 May 2019
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I agree 100% the anti oxidation compound is code here where I live for the aluminum wire

every two hundred amp meter base I've ever put in except for in commercial buildings has been aluminum and I've had no problems

I have a copper screw down lug pretty similar to what is in a breaker box and I put the antioxidant Compound on it and still have problems

I will check out those crimp connectors you're talkin about but I have to change this aluminum wire anyway it was only supposed to be temporary just like tinker was saying in the previous post

I should have never been done like that to begin with

I glued the choke together only filed a gap in the center post

The wire and that Center Post is probably acting like a tuning fork just like tinker saying earlier

I am very happy with this little inverter

Thanks to poida the great I have a very tough little inverter to work on my RV and stay cool at same time

as soon as I get another one up and running I'll be taking the little thing apart and redoing the choke

and maybe move those capacitors I have them on I think 10 gauge solid wire

I drilled down through the board and they are soldered onto the DC railsEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-29
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
Solar Mike
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Posted: 12:04pm 28 May 2019
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  BenandAmber said   .... as soon as I get another one up and running I'll be taking the little thing apart and redoing the choke

and maybe move those capacitors I have them on I think 10 gauge solid wire

I drilled down through the board and they are soldered onto the DC rails


I would leave the original electro's on the pcb, if you want to add extra capacity as you have done - which is ok, then mount the extras closer to the pcb and wire to the underside of the pcb to the original electro terminals (thick copper braid works well for this).

The pcb mounted ones should not be removed as they present a very low esr impedance with low connecting wire inductance. By removing them and placing at the end of long wires the circuit inductance will prevent them doing their job properly.


Cheers
Mike
 
Solar Mike
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Posted: 12:15pm 28 May 2019
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  BenandAmber said   ... I have a copper screw down lug pretty similar to what is in a breaker box and I put the antioxidant Compound on it and still have problems

I will check out those crimp connectors you're talkin about but I have to change this aluminum wire anyway it was only supposed to be temporary just like tinker was saying in the previous post


Those copper screw down terminals would be pretty hopeless with AL cable, the point of contact is too small and air can still get into the joint.... the AL oxide that forms is an insulator so eventually the thing goes high resistance and (smoke)...

Crimping by nature excludes air from getting into the joint and displaces any extra joint compound from between the two surfaces - jointing compound is also an insulator.

Cheers
Mike
 
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