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Forum Index : Electronics : 6Kw Ozinverter build

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renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 06:25am 24 Jan 2018
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One thing I missed was the digital temp thermometer for the control board,
What have others been using?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Clockmanfr

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Joined: 23/10/2015
Location: France
Posts: 429
Posted: 07:21am 24 Jan 2018
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This is what I use, and recommend.

The OzInverter normally has 5 temp probes.

I just use the probe and its cable, junk the rest, and direct wire the probe cable to the OzCooling board and one to the Overtemp connector on the OzControl Board.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BLACK-AQUARIUM-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-LCD-DIGITAL-THERMOMETER-FOR-FISH-TANK-WATER/400545190663 ?hash=item5d425a9307:m:mLMcVjMgtXPoAtFnONmH2oA


Probably find these even cheaper. I like them as the probe is ready made and sealed and the connection's done, and its easy to clamp/hold that probe down.








Or you could make your own probe with a 10k 5% Thermistor Temp sensor NTC MF52-103 3435. these are very cheap, but need cabling and connections.

I trust this helps.
Edited by Clockmanfr 2018-01-25
Everything is possible, just give me time.

3 HughP's 3.7m Wind T's (14 years). 5kW PV on 3 Trackers, (10 yrs). 21kW PV AC coupled SH GTI's. OzInverter created Grid. 1300ah 48v.
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 08:13am 24 Jan 2018
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Ahhh thanks mate, I already have plenty of these as I strap them to fermenting barrells when making grog (hic)

EDIT , yes I got a bit confused when I looked at the board and it called for the extra sensors that weren't in the list.
It's a tad confusing to piece together since the project has evolved so much.Edited by renewableMark 2018-01-25
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 11:24am 24 Jan 2018
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Seems a waste buying all that and chopping off the screen when you can buy 10 sensors for a dollar.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Good-Use-10PCS-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-NTC-MF52-103-3435-10K-ohm-5-DIY/122032518042?epi d=1475639255&hash=item1c69b4739a:g:TaQAAOSwjvJZWwnp

There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 08:02pm 24 Jan 2018
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I have quite a few lying around with dead batteries, it's cheaper @$1 to buy a new one than buy the batteries for them here in Aust, so already have some to chop up, but yeah, I see your point.
Digital thermometer

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 05:08am 25 Jan 2018
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Almost done ordering For the cooling fans I see the circuit brd has 2 pin connection, can I use a 3 pin fan like here and just use the pos/neg lines?
Also that one is 52cfm is that OK?

Cheers Mark

Also Clockman said to use a different fet on the power board, it was these ones can I use them on the cooling board too?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 05:33am 25 Jan 2018
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?? That was the FETs I suggested but you said were not right as Clocmans boards are setup for TO220 or at least that is what I thought.

Yes those FETs and any other N channel will work for the fan control.


I used 140 MM fans, if you are reusing the Aerosharp case they will fit with space to spare, bigger fans spin slower to do the same job.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 05:42am 25 Jan 2018
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Yeah, I asked clockman for a link to the best fets, he said those one you use actually fit better and didn't require the harsh bending the other ones needed.
As if I wasn't already confused
I was just going by the parts list he gave with the boards.Edited by renewableMark 2018-01-26
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 06:01am 25 Jan 2018
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So I was not wrong after all. Had that the other day, thought I was wrong and turned out to be right after all, must be going mad.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 06:07am 25 Jan 2018
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You already are mad mate, product of being married and or kids, kids just speed the process up by 1000 times.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 07:45am 25 Jan 2018
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Been married twice, 3 kids
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 08:21am 25 Jan 2018
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That makes me 1/6th as much of a goose.

Edit, maths isn't my strong point should be 1/3rdEdited by renewableMark 2018-01-26
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Clockmanfr

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Joined: 23/10/2015
Location: France
Posts: 429
Posted: 08:27am 25 Jan 2018
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Yes, the new FETS will fit the OzCooling board without any modifications.

Originally I designed the OzInverter boards to take several component physical sizes.

I am in the process in updating/rewriting the OzInverter Book, as I am very happy with the present final evolution stages of the PCB's/boards design.

Also looking at a full kit of parts for the OzInverter at a 6kW-15kW size. But going from supplying info, parts lists and PCB's, to a full kit, is a fair jump in concept and a fair outlay in stocking stuff.

We run stuff here on a non profit basis, but a kit will have to have its cost effectiveness assessed very carefully.
Everything is possible, just give me time.

3 HughP's 3.7m Wind T's (14 years). 5kW PV on 3 Trackers, (10 yrs). 21kW PV AC coupled SH GTI's. OzInverter created Grid. 1300ah 48v.
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 08:33am 25 Jan 2018
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Hi Clockman, I know Oz has used those newer fets, have you done one with those yet? And what is the benefit of them over the old ones?

Cheers Mark
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Clockmanfr

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Posted: 08:27am 26 Jan 2018
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Hi Mark,

Have a few new FET's running here and their, and some test machines, but at this precise moment, No Complete machine with the new FETs actually running full time.

I am still using up my old stock which work well.

Benefits,? hmm, a little bit more robustness.

If Oztules has tested and running them, I do love his test methods of deliberately blowing them up! then the World is right with me.!Edited by Clockmanfr 2018-01-27
Everything is possible, just give me time.

3 HughP's 3.7m Wind T's (14 years). 5kW PV on 3 Trackers, (10 yrs). 21kW PV AC coupled SH GTI's. OzInverter created Grid. 1300ah 48v.
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 09:01am 26 Jan 2018
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The HY4008W FETs are rated to 200A for the Silicone inside where the IRFP4110's are 180A. That is not much different. The big advantage is the low resistance when turned on which is about 1/3 less. So the HY4008w's run cooler.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 10:01am 26 Jan 2018
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Thanks guys.

Just started dry fitting some components to the control board.
The parts list has 4x 10 uf electrolitic caps, however on the board there are 4 spots which are marked 10uf that are the correct size on the left. Two more are toward the centre but have a bigger outline and there is another that sits under the 8010 board, that one looks the correct outline size, however there is no polarity marked.

Confused, parts list states 4 are req'd, outlines for two are different size.

Pic is of loosely fitted parts for clarity.


Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

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Posts: 1678
Posted: 10:14am 26 Jan 2018
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OK parts list also shows monolithic chip caps x 5 that is probably the one with no polarity marked then, dunno where the other 4 are though.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
oztules

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Joined: 26/07/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1686
Posted: 10:17am 26 Jan 2018
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crappy pic I know
The four on the left in a straight line are electro.
All the other caps ( but for the 100uf) I use ceramics.

tip... do the lowest components first ( resistors, diodes etc ).. then caps, then 8010 etc. Makes it much easier to do....oh, and make sure there is clearance for the crystal above the board ( say 1mm air gap )


This is my normal unit complete with 16 hy4008. It easily does 14kw and more for start up of 5hp motors..... don't know how many I have made, but they all work out of the box... plug and play.

One neighbor who has one as a back up for the grid system here ( flaky) told me the other day he was running the house with it ie hot water on, fridges and freezers and air conditioner, etc etc, and was welding some stuff up for a sizable project... thinking all long the welder was on the grid circuit, only to find the whole lot was running off one of these things... he is a true believer now.... before he thought they were beaut, now he thinks they are legendary.

....oztules

edit this is clearer.... just




And this is how I do the neg installation... I use a 1/8" copper bar ( 20mm wide ), and sweat it onto the board, and then screw it as well.

Makes the board easy to install.... 4 bolt points for the cables, and a few plugs to the top board.




Edited by oztules 2018-01-27
Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
 
renewableMark

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Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 10:39am 26 Jan 2018
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Thanks mate, did my head in as there was polarity printed on the board,
might pull up stumps and have a G&T. Cheers and thanks mate.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
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