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BenandAmber
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Joined: 16/02/2019
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Posted: 08:37pm 12 Jul 2019

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I am pretty much finished with both boards besides programming and figuring out what N Channel BJT to use

I'm sure that information is somewhere

I just haven't had the chance to try to find it yet

I have been very busy lately not much time for electronics

if anybody sees anything else I've missed please let me know

Edited by BenandAmber 2019-07-14

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
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Posted: 10:23pm 12 Jul 2019

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You need the spade connector for ground CN1
It's near the corner where the ribbon cable is.

That connects to ground on the power board.

Like this

Yours is in a slightly different spot, this is the old board.
Edited by renewableMark 2019-07-14

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

BenandAmber
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Posted: 03:11am 13 Jul 2019

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Thank-you mark

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

mason

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Joined: 07/11/2015
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Posted: 07:37pm 13 Jul 2019

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Poida, is your programming set for 50hz for your area?

Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
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Posted: 10:52am 14 Jul 2019

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mason said Poida, is your programming set for 50hz for your area?

Tinyt asked about that and 60hz is no problem it is somewhere in Poida's thread.

There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.

mason

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Posted: 12:01pm 14 Jul 2019

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ok thanks Madness

renewableMark

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Posted: 12:22pm 14 Jul 2019

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If you open up the arduino programme, it will tell you what to do.

Default is 50hzEdited by renewableMark 2019-07-15

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

mason

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Posted: 12:52pm 14 Jul 2019

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Thanks Mark,
I'm not at that stage yet but just wanted to clear that up..

BenandAmber
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Posted: 04:36pm 18 Jul 2019

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I have been very busy

the very last component came in for my Nanos

and they are all done as far as I know

unless I missed something only thing they need is programming

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

poida

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Joined: 02/02/2017
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Posted: 01:52am 19 Jul 2019

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Looking good there B & A

wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers

BenandAmber
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Posted: 03:27am 19 Jul 2019

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Thank you poida the great

Good to hear from you

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

renewableMark

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Posted: 10:10am 19 Jul 2019

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Ben, you haven't fitted a lot of the parts, are you going by the picture Poida posted here on P2?
If so you are still missing some bits.

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

BenandAmber
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Posted: 01:28am 25 Jul 2019

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I will go back and take a look thanks Mark been so busy I just seen this just now

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

BenandAmber
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Posted: 01:44am 25 Jul 2019

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The parts that are not installed with the exceptions of the ones that are blacked out

are the 4 0 0 7 diodes the 120 R half watt resistor and the two mosfets for the fans

I'm pretty sure I have the mosfets just have to dig

I do not have the 120R half watt could two quarter watt resistors be used

I saw and another picture where the 4007 diodes were not installed

Are they required

I will not be main sinking

I would like to have a way to turn on a DC gas powered battery charger automatically if that's something this board can do

Thank you guys for your help there is absolutely no way possible I could do it without it

I Honestly think that if you guys on here put your heads together

you could do absolutely anything that is possible to do

So impressed with the wisdom and intelligence on this formEdited by BenandAmber 2019-07-26

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

BenandAmber
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Posted: 06:08pm 25 Jul 2019

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I ended up ordering a bunch of these if anyone needs them might be faster than slow boat

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

kentfielddude
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Joined: 09/05/2019
Location: United States
Posts: 89

Posted: 05:08pm 27 Jul 2019

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Will the IRF3205 work for the N-channel mosfets?

BenandAmber
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Posted: 07:10pm 27 Jul 2019

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Almost any low vgs mosfet will work poida and Mark told me

Poida used a irfz44n

Mark used fqP30n06

Those were just a couple examples they gave me

Poida even said that he had some left over 220 4008 that he was going to try to use just because he had lots of them

be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks

renewableMark

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Posted: 10:55pm 02 Aug 2019

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Sorry Ben, I missed your question there,
you either use R3 OR R54, but don't fit both.

Myself and Poida used R23 and left R54 empty.

The 4 by 4007 diodes next to R54 need to be fitted for the SCR to work.

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

renewableMark

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Posted: 10:57pm 02 Aug 2019

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I can't edit the above post.

The second line should read R23 or R54

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

renewableMark

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Posted: 09:47am 10 Aug 2019

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Hey Ben, I thought I would reply to your question in your thread so not to confuse Poida's one.

Don't be afraid of bus bars.

They are totally fine if done properly.

Draining power is no problem whatsoever with a bus bar.

FEEDING input (solar) charging power should go direct to the battery via a fuse.

Every single set of instructions for charge controllers will show every time to connect direct to the battery via a fuse, NOT to a bus bar a metre or two away from the battery.

So put a bus bar on the DISCHARGE cable, that's fine.

These are my thoughts and John here has also found doing this simple wiring change has STOPPED failures.

I built and blew 4 inverters in 4 days.

Then I changed the solar feed input direct to battery, built another inverter and WHAM, all my problems were gone.

My house is still running from that inverter, it's powering the screen I'm typing on.

I still have a common bus bar on the drain, but NO input power gets connected to that point.

Perhaps JohnMC could tell you some of his experiences to further the point.
.
Edited 2019-08-10 19:55 by renewableMark

Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb

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