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Mark I should be the last to give advice, But I found that one of the totem pole 41/42 combination was faulty by checking the 10 pin connector on the power board, to make sure that the each totem pole drivers were not connected to any of the other pins .
cheers johnjohnmc
Madness
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Posted: 10:54am 13 Jun 2018
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Mark, I would not take the FETs out but testing with just 4 in is a lot easier to fix if it goes bad. Running through the resistor though should be fine.
"Should I be testing the tip 41/42's I double checked all the colour coding of all the resistors, 100% they are fine, de fluxed again to make double sure, scratched a probe between all solder pads, got me stuffed what I rooted up this time. I have a good few hours set aside tomorrow to sort this out."
Could be really simple, if it is shutting down that quick and showing low AC volts as indicated by the 4 flashes may be that you have not connected the ac voltage feedback to the control board. I have done it myself a few times.
If you get the same waveform from the MOSFET gates as you do from the IR2110's on the control board then the Totem poles are working. You will see higher voltage levels but otherwise should be identical, if there is any difference then check the signal before the Totem poles. If in doubt replace the pair. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 06:37am 14 Jun 2018
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OK I found why it only gave one quick buzz and stopped last night, the control board lost the 18v, so after the zener was fixed it worked again. Did all the other tests and it appeared to be ok so hooked up the toroid with a resistor set and fired it up. There was a terrible buzz and the wave looked like spew.
Tested the resistance of the fets after that and the ones connected to the big heat sink are all fine but the ones connected to the two smaller heat sinks all show 180k. Reckon I'll de solder one and see if it tests the same off the board. Don't understand how they could be damaged only a couple of amps could have gotten to them.Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
noneyabussiness Guru
Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 513
Posted: 06:50am 14 Jun 2018
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How are you testing them.. drain to source or gate to drain or... ??
Also is the ir2110 driver connected when testing??
Just remember your multimeter will partially turn the mosfets on if you say check gate to source with no pull down resistance as it will output a small amount of voltage/amp to do its check.. heck the static on your fingers can turn them on...
180kohm while weird is not uncommon if you meter is picking up the resistance via the driver or caps fitted..I think it works !!
noneyabussiness Guru
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Posted: 06:52am 14 Jun 2018
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How did the control board " loose " (zener died, how ?? ) the 18v??I think it works !!
renewableMark
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Posted: 07:05am 14 Jun 2018
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I'm testing the right two pins as you look at the writing, drain/source. Disconnected the control board when testing, power board was all on it own with no other connections to it.
Zener diode just fried on start up, dunno maybe faulty part, after replacing no issue with the 18v.
I'll check them in the morning if caps are affecting them, if no joy I'll desolder one and test it.
Edit, Just had a think about it, it's clearly getting a signal to the torroid to make it run, but badly, so possibly driver chips or tip issues.
When I checked the signal to the fets before connecting torroid, on the big heatsink I placed the probe on the left leg/gate and checked the signals. The left half was different to the right half, is that normal?Edited by renewableMark 2018-06-15Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 07:31am 14 Jun 2018
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The MOSFETs should be turned off by the 20K gate source resistor.
Check the 10K resistor and the TIP35, AFAIK it can only be one of those killing the Zener by putting too much load on it. Edited by Madness 2018-06-15There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 08:53am 14 Jun 2018
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The zener was on the control board. After I got that bad toroid result I quickly checked the mosfets then had to pack up. I'll go through the control board again in the morning, then check the power board.Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
renewableMark
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Posted: 12:04pm 14 Jun 2018
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Just went out and tested the mosfet resistance and it's over 1m ohm, so that's good. Need to look closer at the outputs before fitting the torroid again.Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
renewableMark
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Posted: 05:59am 16 Jun 2018
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Well after pulling my hair out looking for where I stuffed up decided to put in two new driver chips. This time 2010 that handle a lot more amps..... bad move. When they got fitted something went pop, the green light doesn't go anymore.
So I just pulled the control board off, got a spare blank control board and one by one checked each part side by side (remembering some parts were different to screenprint)
I found the upper fr107 next to the 120r resistor was around the wrong way. At least I found it.
Did my head in for today, I'll have a look at what's rooted tomorrow.Edited by renewableMark 2018-06-17Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 07:17am 16 Jun 2018
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Bloody hell you like doing it the hard way.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 07:59am 16 Jun 2018
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Ha! Bloody told you I rooted something up, just didn't know what. I'll spend an hour or two on it, if no luck I'll just toss it and start another board. Hey could you do a nice clear pic of your board to use as a reference?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
renewableMark
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Posted: 09:12am 16 Jun 2018
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Actually looking at the parts, it's all cheap stuff, all of which I have multiples of, reckon I'll just start another board, double check beside a blank board and do it in one go with no kid distractions. Prob easier than troubleshooting a knackered $10 board, that's why I got 4 @ $10 they are expendable. BTW I ran the known working Clockman control board on the Mad power board and it ran(kind of, it only went to 120v and restarted again and again, but did a sine wave), so at least the power board should be fine.Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
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Posted: 09:30am 16 Jun 2018
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This (starting but not up to full voltage) happened to me once while I was trying to test by powering from a power supply rather than a battery bank.
If your 1810 chip runs, and keeps running (without drivers installed) when you feed in 12V from an external power supply to the VFB input (at the input of the diodes, no little transformer) then this side of the board is fine.
So, check your power to the Mosfet board when the above happens. Edited by Tinker 2018-06-17Klaus
renewableMark
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Posted: 09:47am 16 Jun 2018
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Thanks Klaus, that makes sense as I was feeding the system with restricted power supply deliberately via resistors.
I really need to do assembly when bloody bananas in pyjamas isn't playing, or being pestered to help with play dough.Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
renewableMark
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Posted: 07:53am 17 Jun 2018
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Well I found the 8010 had fried. I replaced that and tested it with resistance fed power. Got a reasonable wave so then went to test with no resistance and the square wave fets on the small heat sink went BAM. Got me stuffed why that happend it looked fine under resistance.
Checked the conrol board on it's own again and it was ok. I'll test the totems tomorrow and fit new fets. Might be an idea to fit new driver chips in case they got compromised.
This was the wave under resistance fed supply.
Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 08:24am 17 Jun 2018
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What did the SPWM and square wave look like, the picture above doesn't look right to me. The voltage levels are lower in the pic above but should be more like this one you posted a while back.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 09:08am 17 Jun 2018
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Yeah, reckon what I'll do is set up the clockman one along side this one and compare the signals, clearly something was wrong to make it go bang, only 1/4 of the fets popped though all the rest are fine. Can I just put in one or two or do I need to have the same number as each other 1/4 has?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 09:24am 17 Jun 2018
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Just put 1 in, the ones on the opposite side would have been stressed also and should be replaced also.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 03:59am 18 Jun 2018
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Persistance finally paid off. Need to fit caps and do a proper power test, but I'm happy it's running!! Voltage is a tad high @280, I put in a 10k resistor instead of the 7k5 but will need higher? Or is something else wrong?