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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : WhiteWizzard’s soldering method...
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Lou Senior Member  Joined: 01/02/2014 Location: United StatesPosts: 229 |
Mick, Grogs, Wiz, Jim, Did anyone else go from the TRS-80 to the Z80 based CPM systems ?? Wow, 64k RAM and 256k on an 8 inch floppy disk was huge storage. That's the route me and Zonker took at work in the early 80's before the IBM PC's came out. Lou Edit: Mick wrote: I wasnt really impressed with it either, compared to REAL computers like the TRS80 and Dickys SYSTEM80 (PMC80 for our state-side friends)
I just noticed Mick's post on the previous page, maybe that's the CPM system I was talking about. I don't recall ever seeing the ZX81 system here. Microcontrollers - the other white meat |
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| WhiteWizzard Guru  Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2817 |
Lou, In America the ZX81 was sold as the Timex1000. Here is a quick reference with a very interesting use for a ZX81/Timex1000 towards the bottom right hand side of the page. 
For everything Micromite visit micromite.org Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o |
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| Lou Senior Member Joined: 01/02/2014 Location: United StatesPosts: 229 |
Thanks Wiz, I did have a Timex1000, now I know what you guys are talking about. A door stop, that's perfect !! Lou Microcontrollers - the other white meat |
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| MOBI Guru Joined: 02/12/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 819 |
Started with Motorola MEK68D2. 128bytes ram, PIA, ACIA all data in HEX (a nasty spell cast on programmers). Totally rebuilt it for 1k (huge) of ram (2102 - 1kx1). Then graduated to OSI superboard. David M. |
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| greybeard Senior Member Joined: 04/01/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 161 |
You might have mixed up your processors there Jim. National Semiconductor had a SC/MP but it was an 8 bit processor. I think I've got a couple of the chips floating around somewhere and I've definitely got a full set of National Semiconductor manuals for the SC/MP ( pronounced scamp ). There even an emulator for a SC/MP available on a PIC SC/MP Emulator But we digress  |
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| WhiteWizzard Guru Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2817 |
Ok gents, nice trip down 'memory lane' but now back to SMD soldering!
For those following these posts, I have gone over some recommendations for the following items that are required before we begin: Soldering Iron Solder Desoldering Braid / Soldering wick Flux Pen Flux Cleaner Toothbrush 
By the way, many thanks for other people's recommendations & experiences too. 
I mentioned last time that we would next be covering 'eyes' and 'fingers' so here goes; beginning with the 'eyes'; which if you don't already have, will be the most costly item to purchase. A strong magnifying lamp is an essential requirement to achieving good SMD soldering results (no matter how good your eyes may be). Do NOT think you will be able to do this without a magnifier. I use this particular unit - very similar are available elsewhere so you should be able to source one locally. This unit, as with most others, is suitable for use even if you wear glasses or contact lenses. Important things to consider are the availability of spare bulbs - yes they should last a while, however, when they do blow you want to ensure you can get a replacement. If the bulb is a custom fit then I suggest buying a couple of spare bulbs at the time you buy the unit. Alternatively there are now a large number of LED Magnifiers which will have a much longer life and would be ideal for the task.
Also important is the manoeuvrability in the 'arm' to allow you to move the lamp/lense to where you need it. I do not recommend a single spring type arm - they may be cheap but they are not really suitable for this task. Note: USB microscopes can be great for inspection AFTER you have soldered (and great for capturing images) but they are NOT suitable for the actual soldering task. The final thing to obtain is a suitable pair of 'fingers' i.e. fine nose tweezers. You do not need to spend a fortune on these - in fact you don't even need a variety of different types as you will find you will always use the same one each time you solder a component (whether it be a chip or a passive component). What I do think is sensible though is to actually buy a cheap kit which will come with between four and ten tweezers each in various styles of 'pinchers'. Then pick the one from this kit that you think will work and try it out. If it is not quite suitable for whatever reason then try a different style from the kit! Here is the kit I purchased; the one I always use being the second from the right. As with all these things, there is a wide selection of choices out there. I would just advise two things when considering: ensure they are light to hold; and make sure they are not made of plastic (I have seen it!!). Hope the above gives some helpful advice for anyone one starting out with SMD soldering. Will post the next 'instalment' soon . . . . For everything Micromite visit micromite.org Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o |
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vasi Guru Joined: 23/03/2007 Location: RomaniaPosts: 1697 |
Mick, I guess that is ok, but if you want a good review from Dave, here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GdV7XBae74 Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton Elvish name: Mablung Miriel Beyound Arduino Lang |
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| WhiteWizzard Guru Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2817 |
Vasi mentioned in his post a guy called 'Dave'; also with a link to one of his numerous YouTube videos. For those of you that have not come across 'Dave' before then he really is worth searching for! He reviews just about anything in a down-to-earth manner (kind of!). So I really recommend you take a few minutes out and see what I mean. Thanks Vasi for posting the link . . . For everything Micromite visit micromite.org Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o |
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bigmik Guru Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2914 |
Hi Lou, Actually, I was the president of the `Excalibur 64' users group for about 2 years (maybe 3). See Excalibur 64 The link does work but takes a LOOONG time to load (must be on dial-up at the source end). That was an Australian designed Z80 CP/M based PC with Hi-Res (via 64 programmable characters), colour and Floppy disks. Don and I, I reckon, knew that beast better than the designers.. It was a kit PC (they did sell buit up at a huge markup) In fact We used to spend friday nights drinking beer and repairing the home built PCs that their `engineers' (sweatshop chinese lads chained to their chairs) could NOT fix. We saw some beauties I can tell you... I designed a 1200/75 internal modem, a 512kb Ram drive (banked 16 pages of 32kb each) for it and a full hires graphics card (actually was 1024 programmable characters that filled the screen) and contracted out a ROM rewrite for line, circle paint type commands... Made a very nice beast but it was another one of those love jobs because it took a long time to recoup my investment of about $5000.. And the pirates copied it too. Same as today. I had 8" floppies and 5.25" both DSDD.. And it was because of CP/M that I started to program in Z80 Assembly (the BDOS calls were a godsend) I digress... again. Ahhh.. those were the days. Regards, Mick Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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| bigmik Guru Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2914 |
Thanks Vasi, For that link, Dave can be found at EEVblog.com. I have not seen that review before.. He has many interesting video clips, I especially like the mailbag.. However you must bear in mind that Dave Jones is an ex-industry professional and is used to being surrounded by high end equipment. Much of which is donated by his followers/disciples.... Not that I am against that.. I wish I had a rich benefactor or two to feed me.. (I used to have Don but he is getting out of the game so I might have to buy my own beer )
Yes his comments are all valid and of course you don't get $300 value for $16... But it is a better unit than its price reflects, I agree with his comments on the tip for general use a point is not good enough... If you do go the cheapo way buy a set of various tips. Regards, Mick PS. I think his soldering example was a bit biased too. He knew the Cheapo was actually working at a lower temp than the knob setting, but he still set them at the same knob setting so they were at different temperatures... Also the cheapo had actually put a fair bit of heat into joint before he applied the hakko, which still struggled a bit to eventually melt the joint. After you have been soldering for many years you get a feel for if the iron is too hot or too cool and crank the knob to suit the job. In any case it is entirely up to the individual and what they are able to spend.. Mik Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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| vasi Guru Joined: 23/03/2007 Location: RomaniaPosts: 1697 |
Yeah, it was one of the complains the viewers had. They requested a tuning on the unit before "smackdown". But at the same time, the test revealed that the unit is not calibrated properly and the user relies on the knob markings to set the temperature. Now, it is possible to calibrate such unit in a home lab. conditions (not Dave's lab)? Well, if someone have a solution, maybe in a new topic. My station is also a cheap one. Hobbit name: Togo Toadfoot of Frogmorton Elvish name: Mablung Miriel Beyound Arduino Lang |
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| bigmik Guru Joined: 20/06/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2914 |
Lads, That link has almost died If you are really interested PM me with an email address and I will email it to you. Regards, Mick Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<< |
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| WhiteWizzard Guru Joined: 05/04/2013 Location: United KingdomPosts: 2817 |
Remember gents, you DON'T need a temperature controlled iron to achieve the results that this method produces. Yes there are some cheap temp-controlled irons out there but I honestly wouldn't touch them (not just because they are too hot ).
Go for a low-cost branded iron like this one I have suggested in a previous post. This will give your more consistent results as you won't have the temp dial which if set incorrectly will give you problems! And the cost is very sensible too - so if it is the perfect (and branded) iron for the job, why try to buy cheaper?? For everything Micromite visit micromite.org Direct Email: whitewizzard@micromite.o |
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panky Guru Joined: 02/10/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1101 |
Phil, Very interested in your soldering series but also loved the trip down memory lane so I started a new post called Digital Memory Lane - would love to see anyones comments. Doug. ... almost all of the Maximites, the MicromMites, the MM Extremes, the ArmMites, the PicoMite and loving it! |
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| Keith W. Senior Member Joined: 09/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 118 |
Retired but itching to still build things I found that I could not ignore SMD components. For an early SMD project I approached an SMD (professionally) experienced acquaintance to load the surface mount components. He introduced me to a Mini Wave Tip to aid soldering SMD’s and it worked very well. I finally purchased a Micron T 2416 45 Watt temperature controlled iron because I could purchase Mini Wave Tips for it and think it great. If you have not tried these tips you are missing out. My iron and tip came from Kalex who had a special on the irons for $75, but in June 2013; they also obtained the tip for me. Altronics sell these irons for $99 and now the Mini Wave Tips. But they sell the tips for $24 each vs about $10 for a standard tip. Were Altronics the only choice I would still now purchase one; not cheap but great for surface mount. I had persisted with my Weller iron for many years and it still has use where more heat is required but this was a big step forward. I am looking forward to learning more of WhiteWizzard's Method.
Keith W. |
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