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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : How many UBW32 CMM’s are out there?

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bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 12:00pm 16 Nov 2012
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Hi Dennis,

Lets see if it is JUST the Green and not something else.

If you can carefully lift the inner leg of R4 and run a wire from GND to the lifted leg, that should eliminate any Green signal...

Does the screen look ok now, albeit with incorrect colours?

Regards,

Mick



Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
MM_Wombat
Senior Member

Joined: 12/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 139
Posted: 08:21pm 16 Nov 2012
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Hi Bigmik,

Ok, I thought I would do the process of elimination.

1. Connect the UBW32 back up to my messy vga connector board. Aha . Green interference lines are still there...

2. Using a printers loop (magnifying glass). I looked all over the headers I had soldered into the UBW32. As I had some header pins soldered into the board previously, prior to the UBW32-MCC, I especially focused on them. I could not see any problems or obvious shorts from the top. To get to the bottom, I had to carefully prise of the plastic holding the header pins together. Once done, I again searched, and voila, a Track had been lifted from pin D9 and was shorting on pin D10. Must have been when I removed the previous header pins...(not as good with that solder sucker)

I traced the track back to the via( where it went from side 1 to side 2 of the pcb). Scratched the dielectric coating from it and soldered a piece of wire from it, to the header pin attached to pin D9.

Connected it all back up and ALL is working ok now. NO interference..

Thankyou for you suggestions.

Regards Dennis
Keep plugging away, it is fun learning
But can be expensive (if you keep blowing things up).

Maximite, ColourMaximite, MM+
 
bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 08:41pm 16 Nov 2012
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  MM_Wombat said  

Connected it all back up and ALL is working ok now. NO interference..

Thankyou for you suggestions.

Regards Dennis


Great News Dennis,

Another working `Mighty Mick Motherboard' Errr I gotta stop saying that my head will get too big.

It is so hard sometimes to diagnose these things... In the early hours of the morning I looked at the tracking artwork trying to workout where the most likely short could be found.

Anyway it is always a great feeling when you get something working after a long and hard hunt.

Regards,

Mick
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Dinosaur

Guru

Joined: 12/08/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 311
Posted: 06:42pm 21 Nov 2012
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Hi All

Is anyone selling this board completely assembled and tested ?

I have stored all my gear in long term storage, as we are about to become
Grey Nomads for about 2 years.
Regards
Hervey Bay Qld.
 
bigmik

Guru

Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 07:29pm 21 Nov 2012
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  Dinosaur said  
Is anyone selling this board completely assembled and tested ?


Hi Dinosaur,

PM me if you like and we can discuss it.. I am going to make a couple more for myself, and I have just sent one off to another bloke, so I can offer you a built and tested board, depending on how quickly you want it done.

Regards,

Mick
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Frank N. Furter
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Joined: 28/05/2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 830
Posted: 10:06am 06 Dec 2012
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Hi All,

@ Bigmik,

thank you very much for your nice UBW32-MCC board (and thanks to Geoff for this wonderful project), it works very fine!

...but any points trouble me on the UBW32-MCC board:

- I think, the admitted voltage is to high! I can burn my fingers on the voltage regulator on the UBW32 with a input voltage of 12V! Even with 9V, the regulator gets very, very hot! I think it is the best to supply the board with no more then 7.5V or with 5V over the USB connector.

- The series resistors for the power and SD-CARD LEDs are to small. With a resistor of 47R flows a current of approx. 30mA through any LED.
The maximum output current sunk by any I/O pin amounts 25mA!
I used low current LEDs with a series resistor of 860R and my LEDs are quite bright...

- It wouldn't go amiss when a RS232 transmitter (like a MAX3232) had found a place on this very nice board...

...but these are all peanuts! I love my UBW32-MCC MAXIMITE board!


I found out that the colour-jitter on white letters are very depending of the used wall power supply (MMBASIC V 4.1)!
With my 12V switching supply is the colour fringe very strong, but with my 9V transformator supply is NO fringe visible!!! With a switching 5V USB supply is a small colour fringe visible...

Can anybody confirm this???

Greetings to All

Frank
 
bigmik

Guru

Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 12:51pm 06 Dec 2012
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Hi Frank,

  Frank N. Furter said  
thank you very much for your nice UBW32-MCC board (and thanks to Geoff for this wonderful project), it works very fine!


Thank you for the kind words and I agree, Geoff has outdone himself with this one.

  Frank N. Furter said  
- I think, the admitted voltage is to high! I can burn my fingers on the voltage regulator on the UBW32 with a input voltage of 12V!


The UBW32 is its own design, the specs state 7.5Vdc to 15Vdc (although I wouldn't feed it with more than 9-10Vdc myself). The small drain of the uSD and two 8pin ICs would not cause too much more load on the Regs, so I will put that down to the UBW32 design which is out of my hands.

  Frank N. Furter said  
- The series resistors for the power and SD-CARD LEDs are to small. With a resistor of 47R flows a current of approx. 30mA through any LED.


I admit I just copied Geoffs cct here, I should have done my own calculations, The current that the pins would be sinking is, by my calcs, (using 2.1V as the fwd voltage drop across the LEDs) would end up as (3.3-2.1)/47 = 25.5ma. I agree... Too high ... I am going to alter these values now to draw 10ma and suggest that these resistors become 120R instead. Thank you for pointing that out.

  Frank N. Furter said  
- It wouldn't go amiss when a RS232 transmitter (like a MAX3232) had found a place on this very nice board...


Yes! I agree and the thought occurred to me, but if you saw how much work poor old Protel 99se did to route the PCB as it was I am sure there was no way I could fit it on the PCB (I designed it to fit a lovely small case --SW120B-- available from RS components for under $4). The idea was that people buy a UBW32 because its small and they want to keep it that way.. The CAN was added as there was a fair bit of interest esp. from the Prius group for a micro that had CAN, I added it after pressure from Don.. it originally wasn't going to be there but I am glad I added it.

  Frank N. Furter said  
...but these are all peanuts! I love my UBW32-MCC MAXIMITE board!

With a switching 5V USB supply is a small colour fringe visible...

Can anybody confirm this???



Thank you again, I am biased but I think it is a good board myself.. As to fringe.. I only use the USB to power it and from my PC there is NO visible jitter on mine, in fact it is a rock solid clean display, I have not tried it powered via a USB plugpack though.. I will let you know.

Regards,

Mick

EDIT***
As I feed the external supply through a Rectifier, there will be a small (0.6Vdc) drop so, using the specs of the UBW32 itself the minimum input from external source should be 8Vdc, I would still recommend not exceeding 10Vdc input.

Mick

EDIT 2 ***
Manual has been updated to reflect the change in Values of R6 and R11 to 120R

Manual

MikEdited by bigmik 2012-12-08
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Vikingboy
Regular Member

Joined: 23/09/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 82
Posted: 01:15pm 14 Dec 2012
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Hi Mick,

Thanks again for my UBW MCC board which you assembled for me and I received about a month ago or so. It has been working fine with no problems at all, and I have really been enjoying it.
I have it connected to my laptop via USB for power and to a second input on a VGA monitor,when I last used it, I left it hooked up this way with power on it, then today, after not using it for around 5-7 days when I tried to access the uSD card all I can get is "card not found" :(

I read through some other threads and the manual etc, and tested jumping the metal case of the sd card connector direct to D5-D6 on the ubw and this then allows the card to function again with no problems.

So it seems the problem is with the card present switch or the connections to it.

My question is, I am having difficulty seeing where the connections are on the board,it seems they are on the top layer under the SD card,can you tell me is there some way to either jumper the switch back into the circuit or if that is too difficult to simply jump ground to the D5-D6 pins permanently, hopefully nearer to the sd card.

If you could post a small image showing the location of the appropriate connections I would really appreciate it ,

thanks,

Andrew
 
bigmik

Guru

Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 02:29pm 14 Dec 2012
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  Vikingboy said  

If you could post a small image showing the location of the appropriate connections I would really appreciate it ,



Hi Andrew,

I am sorry to hear that, I have knocked up this brief to assist you (and anyone else with the problem).

2012-12-15_002716_Micro_SD_rework.pdf

If however, you still cant get it working I am happy to do it for you (or replace it with another one I have made up here), As it has been a while I will offer a share on the freight.. i.e you pay to ship it back and I will return it to you.

Let me know what you wish, I am happy to send another one before you send me back the faulty one.

Regards,

Mick


Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Vikingboy
Regular Member

Joined: 23/09/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 82
Posted: 05:22pm 14 Dec 2012
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Hi Mick,

Thanks very much, that helped me see what is going on much clearer, wow I cant even see those pads, I have no idea how you can solder them.

When you mentioned the faulty switch I thought that had a good possibility of being the cause, as it was working fine for so long. I pressed the two arms against each other ,and also there was a little bit of crud in there too which I cleaned out, after a couple of attempts it is now working fine again :).

thank god I didnt have to attempt soldering those pads

thanks again,

Andrew
 
bigmik

Guru

Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 05:37pm 14 Dec 2012
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Hi Andrew,

Glad it is all resolved..

I think the switch is a bit dicky, One I soldered recently just barely touched when closed, a good one actually pushes the top (from the perspective of the photo in my brief above) arm up slightly...

It could even be the shape of some of the `cheapo' uSD cards, if they don't conform to the exact size/shape it may be the difference between the switch closing or not...


Anyway glad it is fine again ...

Regards,

Mick

Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Raros

Regular Member

Joined: 06/02/2012
Location: Italy
Posts: 55
Posted: 02:23am 02 Jan 2013
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Hi

I mounted the MCC-PCB for UBW32 and it works great.

Thanks to:
Bigmik for the design of the PCB;
Donmck for UBW32-MCC-PCB-Letter;
Geoff for the wonderful Maximite.

I just changed the connector for the SD-Card:




Happy New Year.

Raros.

 
bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 12:24pm 02 Jan 2013
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  Raros said  
I mounted the MCC-PCB for UBW32 and it works great.



Hi Raros,

Happy New year yourself, and to all `TBS'ers of course.

Glad you got it all working.. I like your picture it actually makes the UBW32-MCC assembly look smaller than it actually is.

I am curious though, why did you solder the standard SD connector on instead of using the uSD connector? ... If you could solder all those wires for the large connector onto the PCB you would have had no problems soldering the uSD socket.

Regards,

Mick
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
TassyJim

Guru

Joined: 07/08/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 6099
Posted: 03:02pm 02 Jan 2013
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  bigmik said  
I am curious though, why did you solder the standard SD connector on instead of using the uSD connector? ... If you could solder all those wires for the large connector onto the PCB you would have had no problems soldering the uSD socket.

Regards,

Mick

That is the way I am going (as soon as the parts arrive).

My large paws prefer the size of the standard cards,
My PC uses standard so there is no need to fiddle with adapters,
But mainly:
I can mount the card reader remotely which suits the installation I am working on.

Your board still makes a much neater installation than my first attempt.

Jim

VK7JH
MMedit   MMBasic Help
 
Raros

Regular Member

Joined: 06/02/2012
Location: Italy
Posts: 55
Posted: 12:06pm 03 Jan 2013
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Hello Bigmik

I used a standard SD simply because:

The uSD connector is hard to find here in Benevento area (my hometown).

I had a standard SD reader broken. I removed the old pcb and I soldered the connector on a 1000 pcb holes. And then I used a pair of micro plug 7-pin.

I like to recycle things.....

How TassyJim says I can mount the card reader at different distances.

Raros
 
bigmik

Guru

Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 04:25pm 03 Jan 2013
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  Raros said  

The uSD connector is hard to find here in Benevento area (my hometown).

I had a standard SD reader broken. I removed the old pcb and I soldered the connector on a 1000 pcb holes. And then I used a pair of micro plug 7-pin.

I like to recycle things.....



Fair enough, sounds reasonable, I sometimes forget how lucky I am that there are still electronics suppliers locally to me...

And that RS components will ship for free in Australia.

Regards,

Mick


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MOBI
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 819
Posted: 05:10pm 03 Jan 2013
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  bigmik said  I sometimes forget how lucky I am that there are still electronics suppliers locally to me...


That is the frustrating part about living at the uttermost end of the earth.

I get all enthused about a project but by the time I've found what I want on the net, ordered it and wait for arrival, the ardour has worn off.
David M.
 
Lopezjm2001

Regular Member

Joined: 08/07/2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 42
Posted: 02:08pm 11 Jan 2013
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Is the UBW32-MCC-PCB only available in kit form? Can it be purchased already built (no soldering).

Thanks.Edited by Lopezjm2001 2013-01-13
Lopez
 
bigmik

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Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 02:41pm 11 Jan 2013
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  Lopezjm2001 said   Is the UBW32-MCC-PCB only available in kit form? Can it be purchased already built (no soldering).

Thanks.


Hi Lopez,

PM me with your email address and we can discuss it.

Regards,

Mick

Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
Geoffg

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Joined: 06/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 3194
Posted: 07:31pm 13 Jan 2013
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  bigmik said  
  Frank N. Furter said  
The series resistors for the power and SD-CARD LEDs are to small. With a resistor of 47R flows a current of approx. 30mA through any LED.


I admit I just copied Geoffs cct here, I should have done my own calculations, The current that the pins would be sinking is, by my calcs, (using 2.1V as the fwd voltage drop across the LEDs) would end up as (3.3-2.1)/47 = 25.5ma. I agree... Too high ... I am going to alter these values now to draw 10ma and suggest that these resistors become 120R instead. Thank you for pointing that out.


I have only just come across this, something must be wrong with these calculations. In practice and with the resistor values given, the green power LED draws 14mA and the SD card LED draws 16mA. Just about right for a standard 3mm LED.

Geoff
Geoff Graham - http://geoffg.net
 
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