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Forum Index : Electronics : 6Kw Ozinverter build
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Madness Guru  Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Those are the AC output filters from the Aero-Sharp Inverters. The DC input ones are smaller and have rounded corners. I have 3 of those in my Inverter in parallel also. I have them screwed to the bottom of the case above the toroid.  There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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oztules Guru Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686 |
"Oztules must be Irish, things just work for him, mere mortals like myself have to try and try again to get the result we want." It's a good thing too. If I had of had as difficult a time as you or Tinker, I would likely have never gotten to the end unit. It is very frustrating for me to see some folks struggle as some have. I know we had a lot of phone talks trying to identify the problems you were having. I just could not understand why yours worked so markedly different to mine...... mine which in comparison were thrown together... and yet worked so very very well. They have proven to be pretty bullet proof in the field in the hands of complete novices, and we must have 40 combined years of operation clocked up on just the ones I have built... they are all running in REAL off grid operations... except mine  To the lads having trouble... it is all worthwhile in the end. They really do work as advertised on the label... and much more. Without driver totem poles, I would limit to 4 hy4008... and thats enough for 15kw and more , and also 6 x 4110 seems to work years later too. Mads totem driver board is an improvement to mine, and I like his new driver board too with the arduino on board... plenty of scope there. I would advise how to fix it if I knew what your problems are, but gee, they always run perfectly from the getgo for me... so don;t know what to say. It was great to see Mad and Tinker conquer their respective demons, but I still don't know really why they had the trouble they did.. tinkers layout and design is very point to point, and so has plenty of room for mistakes, but mads was pretty board based, so should have been paint by numbers repeatable. So I just sit frustrated to see folks with start up trouble. They must have done some little thing wrong, but can't see how. The boards I see are well documented, and screen printed..... and ... and I just don't understand..... Best of luck with it, but your problems are very small I suspect, and obviously hard for yourselves to identify... but keep at it. Check every component if you need, look for solder faults.... check point to point wiring...... and pray to the electro gods. They do work don't panic. ..........oztules Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth |
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renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Well she had her first test today, but it kept popping fets. Found the problem. When I came back from holidays I couldn't find the ribbon cable, so made up another. But I f'd it up. D head!! I'll fix that and fit new fets (4 for now) test the control board by itself, and see how that progresses. At least I found the problem Edit, perhaps I should have said "first problem" Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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Revlac Guru Joined: 31/12/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1026 |
I'm about to make an IDC cable myself, Would it be better to heat the end of the cable before its crimped in the connector? Oh Yes there are always more problems, things to check after a blowup. Cheers Aaron Off The Grid |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Hahahahahahaha better not ask me for advice. I didn't heat it though, just apply even pressure and make sure it's 90 deg perfectly to the cable, it sit's in little indentations in the plug. Or you could just buy them made up. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Like emptying your underwear! Aaron, I would not heat up the cable they work fine at room temperature, I just bought ready made cables, one less things I can stuff up.  There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Crimping them with vice grips is good. Set the vice grip closing point to the same height/gap as the plugs final height. That way the jaws are more or less parallel to the plug, unlike using a set of pliers which are on a set pivot. Hope that made sense. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Revlac Guru Joined: 31/12/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1026 |
Mine is Old and Stiff but worth a try, With vice grips. Cheers Aaron Off The Grid |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
No need for that kind of info mate, keep it clean. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Revlac Guru Joined: 31/12/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1026 |
oops Should have worded that different.  Cheers Aaron Off The Grid |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Too late the words out there now. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| Boppa Guru Joined: 08/11/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 814 |
Personally I prefer using an actual vice, multigrips work well too as they push parallel, normal pliers etc push slightly sideways and often end up breaking/bending things. I always inspect the finished crimp closely, looking for wires not quite sitting right in the wavy bits of the crimp |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
I've had a frustrating day. After popping fets I replaced them tested the control board all looked ok but the AC output is jumping all over the place, it goes from 0 to around 50v Caps are out. Mad helped me over the phone to go through my control board again and suggested to look for resistance discrepancies on the power board. I couldn't find anything wrong so assembled it all again and still getting the AC jumping around. The resistance between drain and source is high, fets look fine. Any ideas what to look for? Anyone else had that? Just had it running with no resistors on the DC feed like that for 20 min and put the laser thermometer all over it. Ambient temp is around 17 most parts on board were 20c, the top 2110 was 27c, many caps were 25c, nothing on the boards or fets were above 20c Tested the torroid also today that's fine. I suspected the filters so disconnected them and no difference. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
What is the DC current doing? Also have a good look at the IR2110 sockets, I have had problems with them before, solder joints is another thing to look at. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
DC input current is fluctuating but under .3A so the power isn't getting to the torroid? I'll solder up another 8010 tomorrow and get some more chips. Is this the preferred option these days? I also went over and heated all my solder joints today and made sure they were all glossy, forgot to mention that. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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Tinker Guru Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904 |
Check all your high power DC connection for clean contact and tightness. I found with mine she will not start up with the series resistor (cap charging) in place. I think that big toroid requires a decent inrush current to get going. You have seen my idea of connecting the startup resistor across a DC circuit breaker. You can use that idea to measure the current *after* the monster has started and generates mains voltage. Leave the breaker on but replace the resistor with a DC ampmeter. When you open the breaker then the inverter gets power through the ampmeter and measures the idle current much more precisely than a clampmeter. Do *not* use that idea for anything other than measuring idle current if you value your amp meter. Klaus |
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| oztules Guru Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686 |
Either poor soldering on the 8010, or more likely.... check for absolute certainty, that you did the lead correctly... ie is pin 1 on one plug connect with pin1 on the other... what about pin three?.... does it go to the other pin 3 or somewhere else... like pin 6 perhaps? If you made them symmetrical, then they are likely causing massive conflicts on the power board with the noise responsible for the wild outputs.... thats my best guess. They are non symmetrical, ie they are the same orientation, not mirror images..... just checking... .......oztules Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth |
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| johnmc Senior Member  Joined: 21/01/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 282 |
Double the 10 pin IDC socket on both the PCB boards for soldering bridges as I fried a few Fets this way. cheers john johnmc |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks guys, Tinker, I ran it without a series resistor for 20 min, started and stopped a few times too. Oz, thanks, possible bad solder connection, they are a real turd to solder. Re ribbon cable, if the red line is on the lower side of the control board and on the right side of the power board that should be correct yeah? It doesn't matter if the cable is fed into the plug from left or right does it? If the orientation of the red line is correct then it's fine, correct? John, thanks mate, I went over that carefully today with a glass, resistance checked the hell out of everything. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
I'm going to order more fet drivers, are these the preferred option now? Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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