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Forum Index : Electronics : Power Jack expert help needed

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poida

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Posted: 10:39am 03 May 2019
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  renewableMark said  
..
Poida, you may need to change the crystal for 60hz???
..
QUOTE]

I think all we need to do is change the connections to pins 18,19
to have pin 18 low and 19 high, to make the EG8010 run at 60Hz.
The Mad control board has both 18 and 19 grounded,
to make it 50 Hz.
I suppose I need to cut the trace of pin 19, and pull it high to 5V
with a little extra wire, soldered onto pin 26.

Should be a nice and neat hack.
Hang on, I'm doing it now to prove it's no problem.




Notice the frequency readout top left.

the amazing hack:



running the Madness power board (using the same connector as the powerjack)


Edited by poida 2019-05-04
wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 10:27pm 03 May 2019
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Ben that Mad controller has an arduino that is optional.

It will give you low volt cutout and fans, heat sink temps and their cut out temps etc.
What volts do you want the low volt cutout set to?
I have mine on 46.5v
I'll leave all the other setting the same, just the low volt cutout you'll need to decide on your battery setup.

Sorry Poida, looks like I gave you an unexpected job
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
BenandAmber
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Joined: 16/02/2019
Location: United States
Posts: 961
Posted: 12:01am 04 May 2019
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you are awesome I so appreciate it

If it's okay with you I would rather you pick the voltage


I have aGM batteries

They are not best suited for solar but they were very cheap

I only have eight of them

I was hoping to get 8 more but the guy had already sold the Rest

by the time I made enough money to buy themEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-05
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 12:08am 04 May 2019
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The nano needs to be set, let me know what cutout volts you want.
Keep in mind if you have heavy loads it can temporarily make the volts sag.Edited by renewableMark 2019-05-05
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 12:42am 04 May 2019
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46.5 would be great for me

if I went with 48 from what I've read that'll be 25% on the battery

but I'm really afraid of that voltage sag and no you probably did that for a good reasonEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-05
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
yahoo2

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Joined: 05/04/2011
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Posted: 02:52am 04 May 2019
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lead acid rule of thumb starting point for AT REST volts.

so 46.5 is probably around 25% with newer batteries and a trickle power drain.

edit wow image upload hates green jpg sorry.Edited by yahoo2 2019-05-05
I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 08:42pm 04 May 2019
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Thanks Yahoo2

I am very ignorant at these things

So i have to go off what I read on the internet
yeah I know that's kind of horrible

Or I can trust the greats that have a lifetime of experience that's been there and done that

I have been doing very well with the second thing there

Wow you have been on this form for years

Thanks again yahoo2 for your input and the graph Edited by BenandAmber 2019-05-06
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
poida

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Posted: 06:17am 06 May 2019
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Further to running the Powerjack inverter from the Madness control board:

When running this at 52V, the idle current is 1.5A with the Madness control board.
I tested it using the PJ control board and the idle current is 0.38A
These 2 tests were using identical choke, toroid and capacitor, producing 230V AC.

0.38A for the PJ control board, 1.5A for Mad control board
Why?

I had a look at gate drive voltages, at the PJ power board screw terminals,
since they are so easy to gank into with short wires for the oscilloscope probes.

Here is the low and high side when running under the PJ control board.
Yellow is low side, Blue is high side.
Nice and clean control, no shoot through.
Well, not much anyway.
Notice the 2uS dead time.



There is some, but since the gate voltage does not rise high enough to conduct for very long, it's not a problem.

Here is the same signals, but this time running under Mad control board.



Lots of shoot through. Clear evidence of the oscillations induced by these high energy events too. This is using a 500nS dead time.
Increasing this to 2uS will NOT in my opinion alter the degree of shoot through.
This is because the shoot through is caused by dv/dt, not poor gate drive timing.

I do not recommend you run the PJ inverter with the Mad's control board. I think it's not a good matchup. At this stage I will not send the board to you now.

The problem of how to convert a 240V AC PJ to 120V might be easy enough.
Maybe you can drive two toroids, one having a 240 output, but small.
And one having a 120V output, and huge.
Retain the 240V toroid so as to give the PJ control board the needed 240V AC voltage feedback. That is it's only job.
Place all the loads on the 120V AC toroid's secondary AND accept that in some cases
you will see the voltage droop a little.

You plan to put 2-3kW through it. At 50V that's 60A DC and with long shoot through
event duration, I think you probably will blow it up.

wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 06:22am 06 May 2019
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This might be a silly question but why not buy the power jack control boards that are 120v 60hz?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:21pm 06 May 2019
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I don't trust them

You're at their Mercy if something goes wrong

Then if you can get the part
you got to wait for it to take the slow boat here

They don't have a power board like mine and they say the new Power Board won't work in mine

I'm sure it will because the mainboard and mosfet boards don't look like they've changed it all to me

And they try to gouge the heck out of you

just a little driver card 30 or 40 bucks but they get you for $29 for shipping

and that's the way it is on all the little Parts on the new boards

they made them all little modules that make up the big board now which seems like it would be a good thing

but it's just so they can gouge you forever a little unreliable piece

This is what I've read and experience when I looked into it

And one of the best things of all is how cool is it that have a modded inverter the nobody else has that's way more reliable than Factory
Edited by BenandAmber 2019-05-08
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:29pm 06 May 2019
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I have a way to change the board already have over to 60 hertz

Warp speed came up with the solution by changing the crystal oscillator

That still leaves me with trying to figure out what kind of feedback Transformer I need to find to switch it out 2 a 120

And once I get all that done I'll have a really unreliable inverter

It's no big deal if it's too much of a hassle you guys are awesome and the thought is what counts

And I appreciate you guys either way thanks for thinking about meEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-08
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
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Posts: 1904
Posted: 07:23am 07 May 2019
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I can see that BenandAmber are well on their way to build an inverter from scratch and say goodbye to those over rated Chinese inverters with their under size heat sinks.

Ben, you have been here long enough to give it a go. There are quite a few posts of building an inverter from nothing up on this forum, rather than using fully assembled control and power boards from various sources and, hopefully, get them to work together.

So, all you have to do is re read those posts and avoid the mistakes the original builders made , this will save a lot of time. You'll get an inverter you can truly say "I built it myself".

PCB's are available, you need a decent size heat sink or three, plus the all important transformer. The small parts should be no problem to get.

Assuming you have reasonable mechanical skills to accurately drill & tap holes into a heatsink and your soldering is up to scratch, what are you waiting for .
Klaus
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 04:42pm 07 May 2019
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You're exactly right tinker I don't want to be dependent on a company when my inverter breaks down

The wait time the inflated parts it don't make much sense to go that way when all you guys have already made something munch better on here

And it's just so much fun I have the bug I am addicted or whatever you want to call it

I'm building a warpspeed and a nano after I get this 10000w Chinese board and power jack going

The 10000 watt I'm waiting on a new toroid choke to come in the mail

the one already made just looks tiny in there with tiny wires compared to the Transformer wires

As soon as I put the choke in it it is finished

the Power Jack I have a new Transformer ready to be wound and now just yesterday I've got the wire ready to wind it with

So the only thing I'm lacking on that is a control bored and a couple of the greats on here may already have that took care of for me

So I'm not far away from building one from scratch or at least giving it a try

I've been looking for heatsinks right now

I forget which one of you guys have that absolutely giant heatsink inverter

but I plan to copy it but use a nano

I do better having two projects going at one time

I will be building a warp speed inverter at the same time as building a nano from scratch

I have been Gathering the parts for both

there's a grid tile on eBay that has giant heatsinks that I may be able to cut down into two it'll probably also have some good caps in it and a few other odds and ends

By the way I guess staregazers just a little bit shy

The inverters will be for me and him

he has his eyes set on the warpspeed inverter

I might just have to end up making two of those

my little inverter I will probably end up giving to my dad
for when the power goes off at his house

So all you guys are making a impact on more than just me and it's very appreciated

my dad loves to hear about everything you guys are making on here and what's new on the form

if he could see well enough and didn't shake so bad he would be building a inverter his self

back in the day he used to build all kinds of stuff for CB radios big amplifiers he used to talk to people in Australia from here in West Virginia

He wants to be part of it so bad but just can't

I have set him up a battery backup system for when the power but it's only 250w and won't start his gas furnace

that will soon change when I give him the little inverter that poida the great help me with

Sorry for this being so long but besides having to take care of my parents place working on RV and helping Staregazer with all the rentals this is what I've been into and my plans for the near future

Thanks everyone for having a positive impact on my life and many others


Edited by BenandAmber 2019-05-09
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 03:06am 08 May 2019
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First layer on the power jack Transformer

I need to space the wires out a little bit and then on to epoxy

I'll be adding a little bit extra hardener and hopefully it'll be drying time to add the second layer

Just can't wait so excited get this power jack it up and runningEdited by BenandAmber 2019-05-09
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 04:48am 08 May 2019
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Ben, Poida showed on that previous post that the Mad control board doesn't work well with the Power Jack power board.
Mad designed his stuff to work with his own system.

I'm afraid you'll need to do a nano board or try and source a power jack one.

Maybe just sell it to somewhere that does use 240v?
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 05:02am 08 May 2019
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Thanks for bringing that to my attention

I didn't even see it I don't know how I missed it

I appreciate all of your hard work and time it took to do all that testing
If there's anything I can do to return the favor let me know


I would absolutely love to do a nano is that something you guys can get started for me or help me with

I can pay you or whatever you want me to do I have no problem paying 4 a control board or control board parts

I know it sounds silly but me and my wife both has wanted one of the power jack for the last couple years

ever since we first started reading about Oz hacking them we figured we would get on here and make friends with Oz right away

It didn't happen that away but I've met some really really awesome people you know the kind that work their butt off for a couple days for you

You guys are awesome I've learned so much from you guys and had a really good time along the way

if Nano is not achievable for me I guess I'll have to go back to trying to find the right CAD file that Oz has

And try to get that sent off have the PCB made and try to find a list of parts

I have to get it running somehow and it's my last resort to go with a power jack control board

I trust you and poidas opinion on this if you don't think I should do a nano that's fine I'll try to do something else

I know nothing about programming and I don't have the stuff to program

And if you think a nano is it right for me can somebody please please help me find the right CAD file to send off to a PCB maker for the Oz Control board

if I have to go that route I'll just get 10 of them and keep trying till I get it right

I've been here long enough to know that this stuff isn't something that you can learn overnight but I can do monkey see monkey do

Thanks again for all your hard work and patience with someone like me what goes around comes around and it well be coming back around your way one day I'm sure of it
Edited by BenandAmber 2019-05-09
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
yahoo2

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Posted: 07:47am 08 May 2019
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if you want the original Oz board get in touch with Leslie (clockmanfr)

https://levivray.com/new-book--make-a-6kw-inverter.php

he has a 120v 60 hz control board ready for pcb production. I think!
I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
 
Tinker

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Posted: 10:18am 08 May 2019
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  BenandAmber said  
I need to space the wires out a little bit and then on to epoxy

I'll be adding a little bit extra hardener and hopefully it'll be drying time to add the second layer
/QUOTE]

A tip for you Ben, do *not* mess with the epoxy mix ratio - it needs to be exact as stated on the container (2:1, 3:1, 5:1 etc.)

Adding more hardener will prevent it from going off. But for some epoxy resins you can get different hardeners, like summer & winter types as the curing depends on ambient temperature. So, using winter hardener in summer will speed the curing time.

Do stick to the correct ratio for epoxy, I built a whole boat with that stuff and have a little experience with it .

In case you are confusing epoxy resin with polyester resin, with the latter you add a small amount (drops) of catalyst and there, adding more catalyst makes it go off faster.

BTW, polyester resin on enameled wire is something I would not recommend. Edited by Tinker 2019-05-09
Klaus
 
Solar Mike
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Posted: 12:33pm 08 May 2019
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>> BTW, polyester resin on enameled wire is something I would not recommend.

What is the reason for that Tinker, the polyester type is about 1/3rd the cost??

Cheers
Mike
 
BenandAmber
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Posted: 02:41pm 08 May 2019
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Oh my I hope polyester is fine because this is Auto Body fiberglass resin that I am using
be warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
 
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