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Forum Index : Electronics : Inverter PCB’s
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Tinker Guru  Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904 |
Interesting, tried to decipher the chinglish at the instructions part but gave up. Then I noticed this: "Sorry, the current product is sold out. " Klaus |
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yahoo2 Guru Joined: 05/04/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1166 |
from memory you have got Winston's? minimum discharge is 2.5 volt per cell (resting voltage). I set the cell cut off at 2.6 volt and the pack cut off at 2.95 volt. at light loads that will get below 10% SOC. if you are confident that the cells are even at the bottom then the pack can be pulled down to 2.1-2.2 volt under extreme loads (1000+ amps) although there will be quite a bit of heat generated discharging and charging inside the last 10% State of charge. 2.6-2.65 volts is doable for a light load discharge. I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not... |
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| noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 513 |
battery monitor There's a few different suppliers, ive actually had a good run with this unit.. I think it works !! |
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| Phil23 Guru Joined: 27/03/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1664 |
Not wanting to inflame the DS18B20 issue, but want to make a couple of comments. They don't exist with serial numbers printed no revelation there. I've got 14 in service here on 2 separate projects, one set on a long bus. The serial numbers are hard coded; that's a pain; I have to obtain it with separate code, & if needed it I do it on an alternate device (Mine are MicroMites). What I do wonder is whether the 1-Wire search routine would work in your favour Mad. I've looked at it a few times; it's supposed to search the Bus & find all the devices connected. I've tried with other to port the Arduino code to Basic, but never any final success, due to maybe a hardware timing error. Anyway, had I been able to get the search to work, I could have had a few more options, like loading the SN's into an array & mapping them from there. But never got the search to work, although I believe it works for Arduino. Phil Edited; Somehow I lost the word "Don't" exist.... On my second line; must have read like a Prime Goose....Lol. |
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Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
The Arduino code I have posted to find the addresses of the sensors has worked every time I have used it. Only time it has not found the address is if the wrong digital pin is selected, I have no idea about micromites etc. As for find the addreses and putting them in an array, they still need to be identified as to which location they are in. I have one on the heatsink and another on the Toroid, these are in 2 seperated halves of the inverter case and each has it's own fans. If this was done incorrectly one set of fans would be screaming away trying cool but the part that really needed cooling would be cooking. I have seen references to sensors with the address printed on them but I have never seen one myself. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| Phil23 Guru Joined: 27/03/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1664 |
Is that code to read the Serial number of a single device on the bus or to find all devices on the bus? The Sketch I looked at a couple of years back was to scan the bus & list all attached devices it found. Did you also mention using Paralytic power? Here I didn't get too far with that, despite it being an option; Maybe my environment was a bit noisy. Anyway, powered mine with 5V & a 4.7k pull-up on the data line & they all work fine. Out of interest, one string consists of about 40m of flat phone cable in the ceiling, with RJ-11's & 3 way splitters to drop sensors into each room. Cheers Phil. |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Yes I have wired mine using 3 wires also, aparently the 2 wire thing is not so reliable. I have got mine on just 200 and 400mm of shielded wire. I have one on my batteries for the charge controller with about 3M of CAT6 wire once again using 3 wires. The sensor on the batttery is epoxied into a short piece of copper pipe with one end flatterned. That long distance sensing is interesting, would be handy for people into home automation. The sketch I have posted here only displays 18B20 sensors information including the current temperature. It lists every sensor it finds. In your case you could have someone watch the results while you warm up each sensor to identfy which is which. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| Phil23 Guru Joined: 27/03/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1664 |
Yes, thought that, or alternatively plug them in one after the other in a known order... At this stage though they are just like this in code.... And this... All works, so no desperate need for a change. Cheers Phil Edit:- "Real Serial Numbers..... I had another module running demo code. |
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renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Wow, fitting the fets was bloody easy compared to the Clockman board where they had to be bent. OMG this one took me maybe 10 min to fit ALL the fets, and I know none have been internally stressed from any bending. I did hold the lgs with needle pliers when doing the Clockman, but it was difficult to get them all at the correct angle in relation to the fet body. Anyway Mad, this was nice and easy, one less issue to deal with puts another tick in the box. Edit, I just read this again and it makes me look like a real fan boy and a total suck job, but seriously if you have done a Clockman board then done one of these you really will notice the difference. John mc, you have done both, what are your thoughts?? Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Thanks for your comments Mark, I did try my best to make the board striaght forward and easy to assemble. Keeping all the MOSFET legs straight also means they remain as short as possible. When assembling them screw the MOSFET to the heat sink before soldering, test the board with no big caps then when you go to fit the caps solder the top pads pf the MPSFETs on the PCB prior to installing the caps. Here is what I hope is the final version of the Regulator PCB, I have just ordered 10 of these to test. It allows you to run it as a DC - DC PV regulator or to regulate a GTI back feeding through the off grid inverter or both DC - DC and a GTI. I have added a lot of optional extras which are not needed if you don't want them.  It can be used as a basic regulator as per this version I have been using for quite a few months now.  The new version can be used if you wish to turn on your hot water heater, dump load, vent fan for batteries, air conditioner for equipment room, battery temperature compensation, battery current limit, state of charge monitoring, real time clock and RS 485 communications. The RS485 will also allow you to have other GTI's up to 1200M away regulate their output into your isolated grid. To do this you just use the same PCB but without all the components on it and differenet software to tell it to operate at the output level dictated by the master unit. But if you just want to add a GTI and or DC to DC panels to your system and regulate the output it will do that also. The basic board would be able to regulate over 10KW of panels via basic PWM directly to your battery bank. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 513 |
Eay madness , can you use a nano or do you need a full sized arduino board?? Can you please let us know when you taking orders?? Will take a couple. .. I think it works !! |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
The new version has a Nano, the one with the Uno is an old version. Orders will depend on the interest, only a few people are wanting the smaller Inverter PCBs and seems to be a lot less interest in the stuff I am doing now. I have ordered 10 boards now to test, if they are okay there will be some of those available. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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Ralph2k6 Senior Member  Joined: 24/09/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 129 |
Wow, this gear looks brilliant. I will likely need a PM with a rundown of all these boards you're churning out. I'm interested in adding something to my previous order but just a bit confused by the range now.  But i do love the thrust of this development. (PLC programmer at heart) Ralph |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Hi Ralph, Only 5 different boards and no plans for anything beyond that. So they 8 KW Inverter Power Board 4 KW Inverter Power Board Inverter Control Board with Nano controlling fans, low voltage shut down etc. Dual fan controller PCB using LM339 for those wanting to stick to the basics but also great for adding fans to GTI mine were getting to 55 degrees and throttling back, now they stay under 40 degrees. Charge Regulator PCB as per above. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Put me down for 2 GTI boards Mad, when ready to order, no hurry. Could you explain the jumper links for isolated/non isolated. Sorry I'm a tad thick.  Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| johnmc Senior Member Joined: 21/01/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 282 |
Good Day Madness. Put me down for a couple of your Charge Regulator PCB when ever they become available. cheers john johnmc |
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| ryanm Senior Member Joined: 25/09/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 202 |
Would have been interested in the 4s at the start, but not knowing about them I got more 8s than I've got jobs for. I'm up for a few GTI boards. I'll see what the price is going to be, but I can see a need for a half dozen or so. Recon you could use one as a brushed motor controller with modded firmware? |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
When working with most GTI's other than the Aerosharps the DC wiring from the panels must not have any connection to ground. Otherwise the GTI will give an error if there is any less than 1 megaohm resistance to ground. So the MOSFETs regulating the PV must be completely isolated from ground. This is done with the isolated power supply in the bottom right of the pcb and the A3120 isolated driver IC. But if you wanted to use the PCB with just direct DC to DC then it needs to non-isolated. I have tried to make it as flexible as I can to cover everyones needs. Never thought of using it as a 200 plus amp dc motor controller though.  I have been looking at FPV Drones lately and the only DC motors (Actually they are AC) that had been coming to mind run off of an ESC. If this is double Dutch to you just google FPV racing drone and you will understand then.For those who got 8KW Inverter PCBs I never thought there was any interest in the smaller 4KW inverters. I have one set up as a backup unit but I can see for many people it would be plenty big enough. Especially if used in conjunction with a GTI you have the combined output available when the sun is shining. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks Mad, hey if those who got 8kw units, you can just leave some bits off the board and just make it capable of 4 kw yeah? Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| Madness Guru Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498 |
Sorry I should have said bottom left for the isolated supply. Yes Mark you can leave some MOSFETS and associated resistors and Diodes if you wish. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't. |
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