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Forum Index : Electronics : 6Kw Ozinverter build

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Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 09:32pm 03 Mar 2018
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I had to cut holes for the fans and main breaker in the case, no matter what sort of case I used I would have to do the same. The 2 Aerosharp cases bolt together using the existing heatsink holes. Best of all they were free as I already had them and they accommodate everything quite well. Even the hole for the original IGBT overlaps and leaves a nice space to put the primary cables through. I welded in brackets as needed to mount items like the breakers. Add to that how robust they are I think they are perfect for the job. I am going to build another large Inverter and I will do the case exactly the same way.

As for heatsinks even cut down they provide more than adequate cooling the Toroid heats more than the heatsinks. I cut my heatsinks on a table saw with an Aluminium blade and the end result would even meet your high standards Klaus. Putting the capacitors on the other side of the board requires more space and I don't see that there is much if anything to be gained.

Edited by Madness 2018-03-05
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
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Posted: 09:49pm 03 Mar 2018
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Might try that on the next one Klaus, I'll just be happy to get this running.
The closer I stay to the plan, the better my chances of success are.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
johnmc
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Joined: 21/01/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 282
Posted: 12:22am 04 Mar 2018
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The heat sinks of the 2.5 kw inspire GTI have only 13 fins compared to the aerosharp which has 17 fins, not as much fin area to play with
john



johnmc
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 01:04am 04 Mar 2018
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Woops, just realized I should have used 1 heatsink per side.
I cut one lengthways in half and chopped it up from there.

Still have enough to do them again full height, shall I do that?


Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 01:15am 04 Mar 2018
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I found you need to cut the height down to fit in the case with the control board on top.

Mark do you have access to a table saw? With an Aluminium blade you get a much nicer result.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 01:18am 04 Mar 2018
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I have a table saw, reckon I'll just get a blade and do it properly.

One day I'll finally do a step without stuffing it up.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 01:23am 04 Mar 2018
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Just put it down to experience, if you learnt something that is a good outcome.

A generous spray of WS40 helps a lot with cutting the Aluminium.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 02:47am 04 Mar 2018
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  Madness said   I found you need to cut the height down to fit in the case with the control board on top.

Mark do you have access to a table saw? With an Aluminium blade you get a much nicer result.


How many fins high did you find worked well?

Just got back from buggerings with an aluminium blade for the saw, that will fit in the mitre saw too, so might come in handy for other stuff.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 03:52am 04 Mar 2018
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I think it 4 but don't take my word for it. I used 18MM long M4 Brass nuts in the bottom to mount the PCB, I also put a 4mm thick piece of perpex on top of the heatsinks to hold them and mount the control board. You will have to work out your own measurements, don't forget to allow for the heatsinks on the control PCB.

You won't regret getting the Aluminium blade, the end result is well worth it.Edited by Madness 2018-03-05
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
renewableMark

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Posted: 06:01am 04 Mar 2018
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Thanks Mad, just remembered I have a multitool that probably would be good also, but they are terribly slow on bigger jobs, had to cut some steel one day and that's all I had in the ute, it did it, but jeeeezuz it took forever, aluminium wouldn't be too bad, but yeah, nothing like having the right tool for the job.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
Madness

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Posted: 06:38am 04 Mar 2018
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The Table Saw does a much neater job and is fast, I reckon I could complete all those cuts in under 10 minutes start to finish including allowing time to double check everything.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Tinker

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Joined: 07/11/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 1904
Posted: 09:38am 04 Mar 2018
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  Madness said   The Table Saw does a much neater job and is fast, I reckon I could complete all those cuts in under 10 minutes start to finish including allowing time to double check everything.


Don't forget to wear a full face mask! Unless you fancy having your face peppered with painful alu chips.
I use lanolin spray for cutting, works as well as WD40 but less runny.
Klaus
 
Madness

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Posted: 10:38am 04 Mar 2018
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I put some scrap chipboard over the top and dropped the saw so it was just above the height required. By putting pressure down on the chipboard it gave better control of the job and stopped most of the swarf flying around.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Clockmanfr

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Joined: 23/10/2015
Location: France
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Posted: 05:13pm 04 Mar 2018
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Hi Mark,

The original design of the OzInverter Power board was to keep things simple and easy to put together.
I spent some time researching the best heatsinks for the power board that kept the power board as compact as possible yet it has sufficient cooling capabilities.

As in my supplement parts lists I give details of the 150mm x 80mm x 27mm heatsinks that are ready to direct fit, with slight length adjustment, and 2 of them will require joining together.

The below link is a common industry size, and yes they will Free deliver to Australia.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Tone-Aluminium-Radiator-Heatsink-Heat-Sink-150x80x27mm-PK/332371891036?epid=2069045428& hash=item4d62e8935c:g:O5wAAOSw4i5ZsOJV

Please don't get bogged down with so called improvements with the heatsinks, what I suggest works well.

You will need clearance in the middle above the Big caps, for the 6off battery - flexible cables that go to the negative connection stud and meter shunt in your enclosure from the 48v battery. Edited by Clockmanfr 2018-03-06
Everything is possible, just give me time.

3 HughP's 3.7m Wind T's (14 years). 5kW PV on 3 Trackers, (10 yrs). 21kW PV AC coupled SH GTI's. OzInverter created Grid. 1300ah 48v.
 
tinyt
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Joined: 12/11/2017
Location: United States
Posts: 438
Posted: 06:49pm 04 Mar 2018
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And I thought there are advantages living in my adopted country.


 
Warpspeed
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Joined: 09/08/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 4406
Posted: 08:37pm 04 Mar 2018
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A lot of American sellers on e-bay will not post to Australia, so you are not alone in your frustration.
Cheers,  Tony.
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
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Posts: 2498
Posted: 08:40pm 04 Mar 2018
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The way things are going there will be a lot less going in and out of the US.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Warpspeed
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Posted: 08:44pm 04 Mar 2018
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I suppose it depends which comes first, the great worldwide financial collapse, or thermonuclear war.
Cheers,  Tony.
 
renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
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Posts: 1678
Posted: 08:52pm 04 Mar 2018
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I think it's funny how they won't post to China.

Thanks for the link Clockman, reckon I'll be right now I have an Aluminium blade for the table saw.
Those actually are pretty reasonable price, four of them delivered would be around $60 Aus.
It would have been cheaper for me to do that than buy a new blade for my table saw, but when the second one gets built the blade will have paid for itself, and I have an extra tool.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
renewableMark

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Joined: 09/12/2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 1678
Posted: 09:05pm 04 Mar 2018
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  Tinker said  
  Madness said   The Table Saw does a much neater job and is fast, I reckon I could complete all those cuts in under 10 minutes start to finish including allowing time to double check everything.


Don't forget to wear a full face mask! Unless you fancy having your face peppered with painful alu chips.
I use lanolin spray for cutting, works as well as WD40 but less runny.

Thanks Klaus, this is the stuff I use on outdoor padlocks works for years and doesn't discipate away like crc or wd.
Cheers Caveman Mark
Off grid eastern Melb
 
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