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Its only an item on your design Mad!! Edited by Mulver 2018-05-17
Madness
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Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498
Posted: 12:53am 16 May 2018
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Have now, I was worried you might thought I was serious.
Here is the power board with nearly all the components on it, this board is running with a 2 KW load on it. I would go higher but the breaker I am using for testing would pop.
Don't forget to put a heatsink on the TIP35c. Edited by Madness 2018-05-17There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678
Posted: 01:58am 16 May 2018
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Can the 120r 5W on the powerboard be a ceramic like on the control board or does it have to be metal film?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 02:25am 16 May 2018
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Does not matter, that one in photo is carbon, what matters is 5W 120 Ohm. I used the Carbon resistor because I have them and am short on the ceramic ones.
I always screw the MOSFETs to the heat sink before soldering them. With the short distance between the body of the FET and the PCB there is no give if they were not all on the same plane. You can clamp the PCB to the heatsink and use a 1.5mm drill in the centre pin holes to mark where each hole needs to drilled and tapped for the screws.
There is a few extra resistors on the PCB that someone with a sharp eye might spot, I need to remove them I was trying something.Edited by Madness 2018-05-17There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 02:35am 16 May 2018
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r77 has an extra?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 03:21am 16 May 2018
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No just follow whats on the board Mark.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Ralph2k6
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Joined: 24/09/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 129
Posted: 04:49am 16 May 2018
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You've done a great job with getting these boards out Madness. Must be like seeing your children go out into the world. If Oz couldn't make it pop easily then it must be tough Edited by Ralph2k6 2018-05-17Ralph
Madness
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Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498
Posted: 05:05am 16 May 2018
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Bit like that Ralph although Oz has more prolific, fingers crossed they all behave themselves and grow up to be good performers. Will be good to see people living off the grid with them like I am.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678
Posted: 06:27am 16 May 2018
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FRIGGA, I only have 6.2 and 6.8v zeners and jaycar don't sell 6.5, will either one be ok?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
oztules
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Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686
Posted: 07:59am 16 May 2018
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Mark, your unit has arrived... first glance you must promise never to use environmentally friendly solder... ever again.
The solder was lead free or your iron is way too cold...... but judging from the pads all tron away from the driver chips, where the lands are small, I am guessing the iron was pretty hot, but the solder would just not run... usually means lead free.
Ok, you have made no real mistakes apart from a wrong resistor on the power board, where you had 20k instead of 5r6. This would not have done much I suspect, as the three or five that would have been with it, would have shadowed the fet that was just way behind the scene on turn on, but the diode would have turned it off fast anyway..
So that did not cause the pulsing.
Tidied up the dry joints, and pushed the components against the board, instead of 8mm above the board, and it ran the power board I was testing with last night for mads stuff... 5kw was no problem.
It ran perfectly well... no sign of hunting. Then used your power board, and it ran fine too..... Then plugged your switch into it instead of my jumper wire for start... and thats when the trouble began, which finally ended in destruction of the fets.
So it turns out that your problems were multiple, frozen joints, and crappy switch.... who knew...
Because of the 100amp of breaker, there was no damage to the control card at all, and I have yet to replace two banks of fets, then I expect we are good to go again.
I found out another thing that Mad will be interested in, the reset using a press switch works perfectly, but if you do a very fast short to ground, it does not empty the voltage out of the 100uf, and so will confuse the 8010... and it will blow things up...
So we have learn't why you have blown units up with reset, and until now I had not. A push button will never blow it, because the action is too slow, but a glancing short is very very fast, and enough to cause us problems... so now we know.
Will probably fix the fets tonight or tomorrow, and I think we will be good to go then.
6v2 should work ok. It is only to trigger the scr from memory.
..........oztulesEdited by oztules 2018-05-17Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
renewableMark
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Posted: 09:47am 16 May 2018
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Thanks Oz, I'm puzzled how I had crappy solders. I normally heat the part and feed solder from the opposite side to the part, keep heat on till it's nice and glossy. When I was having issues I heated all solders up to glossy again, just to make sure that wasn't the issue.
I'll have to check that solder if it's the lead free type.
So how did the switch cause an issue?
Edit, I did go over it with a bronze brush to make sure no fleks were causing bridges, that would have made solder joints dull looking, you can probably see the scratches across the boards.Edited by renewableMark 2018-05-17Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Boppa Guru
Joined: 08/11/2016 Location: AustraliaPosts: 814
Posted: 09:50am 16 May 2018
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I detest that lead free solder, it's been the source of so many issues
Madness
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Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498
Posted: 09:52am 16 May 2018
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Yeah it's got whiskers on it.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
ryanm Senior Member
Joined: 25/09/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 202
Posted: 10:07am 16 May 2018
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I don't mean to look a gift horse in the mouth, but you could leave a bloke a bit more room to land an iron Madness.
PS. Thanks heaps for all your work.
Madness
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Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498
Posted: 10:31am 16 May 2018
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More information please?There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678
Posted: 10:37am 16 May 2018
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I think he means not so crammed..... allowing more space to lay an iron without interfering with other parts.
It is tight but it's fine IM(limited)OCheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
ryanm Senior Member
Joined: 25/09/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 202
Posted: 10:41am 16 May 2018
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I'm just being soft. Quite small solder mask offset around the smaller holes.
ryanm Senior Member
Joined: 25/09/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 202
Posted: 10:50am 16 May 2018
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Just saying those top right pads have a lot better thermal transfer than the bottom left.
renewableMark
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Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678
Posted: 11:04am 16 May 2018
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I'm prone to sooking like a little bitch, but that wouldn't piss me off. A gumby like me soldered all that ok.... hopefully Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Joined: 08/10/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2498
Posted: 11:29am 16 May 2018
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Those are the default pad sizes in Designspark, changing that would be a major PITA for every component. I don't find any problem soldering them, worked for me and Oz didn't bitch about it either.
On the positive side there is less chance of bridging them. Next time I might do surface mount instead.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.