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We still need to provide a positive bias on the anode of the led, pin8 pulls to ground from memory. So you want gnd on the 47uf, and 5v via the 1k to the led... I think that is whats going on now.
Just cutting above the pin, will still provide gnd to the 47uf... but no excitement to the led.... and grounds the 1k to gnd from +5v.
Using your technique would stop the internal led, use up some current unnecessarily, but the external LED would still be viable..... so your fix would have half worked..... and the upside would have been no moths attracted inside the ( my ) box last night perhaps
........oztulesEdited by oztules 2018-05-14Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
Madness
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Posted: 01:32pm 13 May 2018
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If you want to include Klaus's suggestion you can do it this way.
Edited by Madness 2018-05-14There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Tinker
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Posted: 04:17pm 13 May 2018
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I always did wonder why there were LED's on that ozinverter control board, nobody but moths will see them when the thing is running .
My control board has a socket from where all the switch/ indicator / etc. wiring to the front panel go. For testing, I made a dummy control panel in a jiffy box that can plug in there. Makes all the flashing lights easily visible while I tinker with the inverter.
And, having that 10K resistor, no drama when unplugging that box.Klaus
Madness
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Posted: 09:10pm 13 May 2018
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The LED for the overcurrent shut down must be there so not a good idea to remove that one. At less than 1 cent each for LEDs why bother having to plug something in that may be overlooked. If someone can forget to plug in the power switch then there is much greater chance that they won't plug in the LED. I think that it is very important when you consider that the Inverter could be running producing lethal voltages and there is nothing to indicate it is alive.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
oztules
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Posted: 10:10pm 13 May 2018
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Yes, the leds on the board are there for indication. Unlike tinkers, these boards are independent of cases or other ancillary equipment, and are stand alone units.
They can replace any LF inverter heart with no extra stuff required, just a tranny and battery and it works.... you don't need a control panel
Plus, it gives any moths that do turn up, enough light to read the form guide in the news paper.
.......oztules
Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
Warpspeed Guru
Joined: 09/08/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 4406
Posted: 12:27am 14 May 2018
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The way I do this, I line up all my on board LEDs like soldiers, and fit the LEDs only onto the first prototype boards for initial testing.
Once the board is finally fitted into an enclosure, I then replace the LEDs with a long single pin header strip.
Its then easy to put a female plug onto the flying leads soldered to the front panel LEDs, so the connection to all the LEDs can all be unplugged together.
Its just a case of making the pads and holes on the board large enough for a pin header strip. Edited by Warpspeed 2018-05-15Cheers, Tony.
ryanm Senior Member
Joined: 25/09/2015 Location: AustraliaPosts: 202
Posted: 05:11am 14 May 2018
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What's the board process Madness, lead HASL?
Madness
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Posted: 05:30am 14 May 2018
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Correct.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Madness
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Posted: 05:51am 14 May 2018
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I have one Inverter running with the new PCBs, no load and no capacitors at this stage. I have included all the mods shown above including Tinkers 10K resistor which does exactly as he said it would.
I have not started with the Nano section as yet but I do have most of the code written to shut down on low voltage and control the fans.
The Sinewave is not broken it is just how my phone took the photo, I can't find how to manually set the exposure time on this phone.
If you choose to mount the TIP35s as above I used the full length of their legs. If you don't want them that way just mount them as normal with the printed side facing the PCB. Edited by Madness 2018-05-15There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Madness
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Posted: 06:15am 14 May 2018
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The + symbol is a bit hard to see on silkscreen as it got mixed in with the transistors. It is on the left side of the text for all 5 of the 100uf electrolytic on the power board.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Tinker
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Posted: 06:43am 14 May 2018
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Hmmmm, so you reach to the switch on the control board to turn it on? Sounds dangerous, at night, with a torch in hand and pestering moths.
I rather have the controls somewhere on the cabinet outside, easily accessible.
In case somebody is wondering what these controls entail;
A power switch (illuminated) to turn inverter ON or OFF (SPWMEN)
A reset button (momentarily removes +5V from the SCR anode to reset it after a fault trigger).
A green power LED, this lights when correct battery voltage is present and goes off at low battery voltage. Also very convenient when charging the capacitors up, it tells me when its safe to apply full battery power.
An orange status LED, this is the EG 1810 fault code LED.
A red fault LED, comes on when the SCR is triggered by over current and, in my inverter, by low battery voltage.
Additionally, there is a power meter and the control to set the auxiliary fan temperature parameters.
So mad, you see I have all the LED's but in a more sensible place . Klaus
Madness
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Posted: 08:29am 14 May 2018
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Might be less confusing to people not so familiar with building their own inverter to stick to the boards that this thread is about.
As for metering and fan control, I am doing all of that from the control board, no extras needed. This will include a 20 X 4 LCD screen which will also display the temperature and highest temperature of the heatsinks and Toroid. Other functions that the Arduino Nano will control is overcurrent (in addition to the BT136), low voltage and over temperature shut down. It will be optional to select auto restart after the reason for shutting down has come back to a safe operating level and a preset amount of time has passed. There will also be a limit to the number of restarts that will be able to be set. Edited by Madness 2018-05-15There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
oztules
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Posted: 11:52am 14 May 2018
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Didn't get a chance to play with Mads boards until late this afternoon.
Anyway two built now and tested without big torroid, only small transformer.
Perfectly good waveform as per mads picture. Same mods around the on/off lands.
So Mad, yes the control boards work. I have not implemented the nano as yet, but will soon..... probably as soon as you do the software
I noticed a few changes compared to mine, and we discussed these a long time ago... the 1n cap at the IFB area, changed to .0022uf... 223, and a 4k3 went to 1k. My last set of boards still had the 1n and 4k3 values on them.... can't even remember why I changed them, but must have been a stability reason perhaps.
Tinker, your guess is absurd. You will note the board has independent load resistors for the leds... thats for concurrent operation....not mutually exclusive operation... so if embedded into a inverter case, then a control panel operates in unison.
Don't know where you got the impression the switch was on the board. For testing I use a pin jumper for on/off, else on the outside of the inverter box. Not lit up, not noticeable, and not where it can be knocked or inadvertently switched off.
These aren't for pretend off gridders, these are for remote living folks. No bells, no whistles they can't understand, just smooth power all the time.
.........oztules
Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth
Madness
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Posted: 12:05pm 14 May 2018
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So changes as per below, working on the code when I get time.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
renewableMark
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Posted: 11:30pm 14 May 2018
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OK so to make it super clear it's like this yeah? (just want to get this right first time)
Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 12:18am 15 May 2018
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That is right 1n becomes 22nf 4k3 becomes 1k.
Worked out how to get to advanced settings in my phone, they keep changing how to get to it. Here is a CRO shot with 50 ISO.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
yahoo2
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Posted: 01:02am 15 May 2018
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Oztules suggested those revisions at the end of August 2017, I dont remember why. So they are not new, gee almost 9 months I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...
renewableMark
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Posted: 05:29am 15 May 2018
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Might sound silly but I just want to get it right. The two caps on control board next to the crystal are 22pf yeah?
R44 on the power board is 5k? and the cap next to it is 104?
And the 104 caps on the power board are monolithic or ceramic disc?Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb
Madness
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Posted: 06:13am 15 May 2018
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Yes, 22pf, all 104 caps are monolithic, r44 is 5k or 5k1. There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
Madness
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Posted: 06:16am 15 May 2018
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My sincere apologies for anything I overlooked, in hindsight, I should have ordered a small batch instead of giving in to pressure to get the PCBs sooner rather than later.There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.