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I have an old PowerJack Inverter and Support from the Chinese has much to be desired.
I purchased the LW-CONTROL-REV 3.6 A circuit board from PowerJack, with their guidance, to replace an old controller LW-CONTROL-REV 1.2 which has failed.
The new REV 3.6A board has many extra sockets which I list below:
NTC1(2) 45/60 C J2 J3 J1 CN4
Is it okay for these to NOT be connected or have I been supplied the wrong circuit board?
I would appreciate a reply from anyone with experience with these Inverters.
Thank you, labman
noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 512
Posted: 08:37pm 09 Nov 2020
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A picture is worth a thousand words...I think it works !!
Hopefully I have successfully attached some oictires.
BenandAmber Guru Joined: 16/02/2019 Location: United StatesPosts: 961
Posted: 08:27am 14 Nov 2020
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You might have to show pics of the mainboard and if it has them the little removable mosfet boards
I am no expert but have learned a few things from the guys on here and experimenting around
I am almost certain anyone on here would tell you I am not a good advice giver!!!
If it was me and It wasn't my primary inverter I would take the chance of blowing it up and try it
I would limit the current and turn it on see what happens
At some point you just have to blow stuff up to learn
I have been goofing around with alot of set ups
almost every time I could tell by filling mosfets if it was going to blow
Of course all my Power Jack inverters did have one set of mosfets that heat up
I have that fixed now with new programming on my original PJ control board
i also have a genetry solar control board that I have been trying to blow up without any success
I have blown many used mosfets of unknown values and a couple sets of original PJ mosfet boards
I have now moved on to the mosfet boards kentfield design for me that seem to be perfect
I would say the people that do have knowledge will chime in if you give it a little time
these guys don't blabber like me they think long and hard before they speak
I have a genetry solar wifi board it is pretty cool also
you can link inverters together for more Power or 3 phase is just a few of the things now possible
they even have a new inverterthat just came out that is taped for different voltages
no more having to buy a new inverter when you upgrade you battery bank voltage !
Lots of videos on wifi board and control board on YouTube sean at genetry solar
I have done a few pretty cool things in the last several months testing different transformers designs
I have had some really good luck!!!
A few things warp speed had told me just wouldn't stop running in my brain
So I have wound and tested many experimental transformer designs and have lots of load testing videos
For a example on one of many a 2500 watt core but wound it with over 5000 watt primary and secondary
More to come on that to anyone interested
Good luck if you end up needing something ask I might just have it Edited 2020-11-14 18:57 by BenandAmberbe warned i am good parrot but Dumber than a box of rocks
The MOSFETS test okay with a meter. The main board is OLD Type without removable boards. The Inverter is stone cold, no matter if used as an inverter or charger. Measured a few voltages but without circuit diagrams it is difficult. Transformers meter okay. Switches and Fuses okay. So I ordered a new Control Board after emailing PowerJack in China. The replacement board is very different, despite assurances that it would be compatible. Many more sockets. I sent them photos, but no response. Hence I am asking this forum after seeing some Powerjack discussions.
Your advice about blowing up. If this was the case, the repair would be easy. This inverter looks like new, has only been used occasionally in a holiday shack. One day it stopped working.
noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 512
Posted: 11:16am 14 Nov 2020
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The small 2 pin socket near drive boards is for current sensor for screen on some models, should run without it. The 3 pin near cpu is for fan, some need feedback from fan, some don't. Ntc (2) and con3 are both ntc sensors, again should run without them hooked, but you will lose temperature control. " 45-60 " no idea. . Have no idea about three 2 pin connectors bunched together.
Above is a educated guess, I had a board with similar features.. as long as you have voltage feedback and 10pin connector it should run( not counting fan feedback as some do, some don't). They are pretty tough boards, unless something wrong, you should be hard pressed to kill anything.I think it works !!
Thanks heaps noneyabusiness. One question though, What do you mean by 'voltage feedback' exactly? Internal on the board or an external load or if being used as a charger, a suitable battery bank as a load?
noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 512
Posted: 10:35pm 16 Nov 2020
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Basically as long as " output " of transformer is hooked up to correct place ( maintx ) it should work... that includes the " charger " side ( p1 )...
Please understand, unless they have made changes to software or hardware, if you had a tight transformer ( aka toroidal) the changeover from inverter to mains ( or vis versa) was destructive to mosfets.... they were designed with lossy E cores in mind which was a lot softer on changeover.. I do have a updated version that uses a couple of power resistors and a extra relay to soften changeover...I think it works !!
The MOSFETS look okay with a diode tester, none shorted, but they aren't exactly diodes.
So I believe you are hinting that the Control PCB will only do its job if feedback from the transformer is okay, and that relies on the Power Board with FETs is working.
I will change the MOSFETS and try again. My soldering will also improve the look of the PCB ... it has terrible soldering !
thanks.
noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 512
Posted: 08:40am 17 Nov 2020
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Mosfets have a inbuilt body diode... so your tester is most likely accurate. Doesn't mean mosfets are dead, in fact leaning to more ok than anything as they usually dead short and ether explode or trip fuses / breakers which ever is first.
Yes the control board will only work with the above connected.
The design is actually quite good, just usually ether poorly executed ( random lose bits etc.) or used outside of its build design... especially on the older models.. when built properly they are quite tough..I think it works !!
I think you are right. the MOSFETS are okay. The control board does start up, and neither does the spare I purchased from PowerJack China. No buzzer alarm , no Voltages on LM805 regulator. AC in is okay so fuse is okay. Probably spent too much now on it in parts. Time for a new one.
noneyabussiness Guru Joined: 31/07/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 512
Posted: 02:31am 28 Nov 2020
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do you mean " doesnt " start up ??
check the pcb track to the 10 pin cable connector from the 48v supply.. sounds like its not getting power.
could be a heap of things, could be simple.. if you wish to persue it, send some photos of both sides of the power board and also try replacing the 10 pin ribbin cable.I think it works !!
wiseguy Guru Joined: 21/06/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1156
Posted: 04:57am 28 Nov 2020
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Is the LM805 actually a LM7805 ? Is it on the control board or the main board? Either way, if there are no voltages on it you have a good starting point. Work back from the input pin of the regulator and it should hopefully lead you to the source of the problem ? Dont ever assume that a glass fuse is ok because the central wire is not "open". I have seen the fuse wire in glass fuses disconnect from the end cap internally & look fine but are open circuit. Use a DVM to check even what looks obvious. Hairline cracks on pcb tracks, dry joints - there are multiple sources of easy fixes. If you get to the point of giving up - then you have nothing to lose so go for broke with less concern of making it worse - its heading for the bin anyway - there is a fault just waiting for you to be the hero, find it ! A good hint that it may be nothing to do with the control board is that replacing it didnt fix it. That is unless the new control board needs a link installed to make it work that the old one didn't. It sounds like the issue is probably on the main board ?If at first you dont succeed, I suggest you avoid sky diving.... Cheers Mike
Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me.
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