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Forum Index : Electronics : nanoverter build
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renewableMark Guru  Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Hey guys, just started assembling my nano control board. Just want to confirm the silkscreen markings, does the line here mean the negative side?  Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
Yes, it is the cathode of the LED. If you have a DMM with diode test function, placing the negative probe of the DMM at the cathode and positive probe at the other LED pin (anode) will show voltage across the LED and most of the time will also make the LED light up. I am excited to finally see hardware. Will be watching the progress. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks Tiny. Poida has boards too so lets see who finishes first. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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yahoo2 Guru Joined: 05/04/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1166 |
Please post some stuff as you go, I have been away doing other stuff and lost touch, its interesting to see where you guys are heading with this. I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not... |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Shall do Yahoo, Had a little space issue, the idc connector is a tad close to the power supply board, so I pulled the pins from the idc and replaced them with 19mm long header pins, that rose it up a tad, then gave it a little shave on one corner and soldered it in slightly crooked. Now it all fits in nicely.    Mulver and John, I have included some of the long pins with your boards to do this alter, went in the mail today. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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poida Guru Joined: 02/02/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1418 |
Mark, the boards arrived today. Thank you for this. My plan is to build this in stages, maybe never completing all of it's function. First stage is to get nano1 running, powering a MOSFET bridge, with Vfb as designed. I will use the IR2184 drivers. Next stage is nano2 with I2C LCD. The AC sync will come next. I will unfortunately only be able to use the street power as AC sync source. I can use the function generator to pump arbitrary waveforms of increasing ugliness into the signal path. This might be worthy of further thought. (I was tempted to buy a used but decent generator off ebay, with a view to using it for this project then reselling. I figured I would never resell it and so accumulate more gear..and then I thought "look! there is beer in the fridge!" and the gen was not purchased.) Then add DC supply under voltage cutoff, AC undervoltage, the two over temp cutoffs. I probably won't build the SCR over current circuit, but it will be easy to test and debug code without it. Of course if you need any help with your build PM me. wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks Poida, I'll probably finish the board fairly soon, I'll most likely need some help testing it as I have a set procedure to test the Oz/Mad boards, but have no idea about these. My pure sine inverter generator hasn't been used in anger for prob 12 months, so it's no big deal for you to use this mate. Edit, it runs well, I fire it up every now and then. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
Oops. I used OST 302-S101 connector to make the footprint for J1 (spec. attached)2019-01-17_011157_302-SXX1.pdf Sorry about that. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
No worries Tinyt, it's a simple fix if you want to use the connector I chose. Big thanks for putting it all together. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
All done.  Sourcing the dip pinned chips was a bit hard so ended up making some smd adaptors using the long header pins.  Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
Nicely done. As a precaution, prior to first power on, I would remove all socketed ICs, then apply power and measure for correct voltage outputs of the dc-dc, the 7812, and 7805 linear regulators. If all good, install one IC at a time and remeasure the output voltage of the linear regulators after every IC install. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks Tiny, it's kind of a paper weight till I finish my next inverter though. I don't want to mess with the one that runs the house for now. No rush. It will be nice having gen sync, we have kept the mains connection as a backup in case there is a extended cloudy spell. When this is all up and running that can be cut off completely. More end clamps arrived today so I can mount another 1.5kw panels, getting pretty cloudproof now. It's 28c and cloudy here today and it's still making slightly more power than the house is using with A/C on most of the day. Hey Tinyt, or Poida, I was just checking the PDF schematic again, R23 and R54, it shows to install one only. What is that for? So with 7812 looking at the black side I should see 15v on the left pin and 12v on the right pin (ground middle) 7805 should be 12v left pin and 5v right pin. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| poida Guru Joined: 02/02/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1418 |
Mark, this is a good thing you have done: start a new thread for the build (and debug) My view on R23 and R54 is one is loading the AC side of the diode bridge, the other loads the DC side. I would probably use the AC loading side since a current transformer needs a load. There might be situations when the CT will be unloaded if the DC side resistor is used. Correct me please readers if I am barking up the wrong tree. if anyone here wants a good gerber viewer, I have used https://gerber-viewer.easyeda.com/ with good results. I best work out a small purchase list of bits for Sunday now. Just want to get the 2 vregs going and the gate drive support for now. wronger than a phone book full of wrong phone numbers |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
 Thanks Poida, here is a pic of the board. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
This was discussed in poida's 'Various aspects of homebrew...' thread pages 43, 45 and 46. Correct. Maybe this will also help. Use a power supply with voltage output close to your battery bank. If your power supply shows load current reading, note the readings as each of the socketed ICs gets plugged in. Increase in current should be small. After all ICs are plugged in, do touch temperature test to the body of 7812 and 7805 every 5 minutes for maybe 30 minutes. Maybe heatsinks are not required on them.  |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
 Thanks Tinyt, did that test, first with no chips, power supply was fine then the 7812 and 7812, tested fine. Added the 21844 one at a time and voltages all ok, then the lt1638's one at a time and voltages still the same. Then removed all chips and did the same test measuring mA. Each addition of a chip rose the current slightly, when all 4 were in place the current was 11 mA, then when adding the two arduino's it rose to 53mA. No noticeable temp on the 7812, 7805 is slightly warm to the touch after a while. Will still put heatsinks on them though. Prob not enough room for this this should be fine. So far so good. No smoke!!! BTW green LED bottom left was dimly lit. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
Excellent! That green LED is being driven by nano1 pin 15. Try removing nano1 from it's socket and see if it turns off. I don't know what code is preloaded in the arduino nano when purchased. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Yep, removed nano 1 and it goes out. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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| tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438 |
I think it is intended to be just a visual indicator that PWM is running if the code uses it for that purpose. I looked at the nano1 code, as far as I can tell PIN 15 is not being touched by the code. So just ignore whatever its condition is. |
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| renewableMark Guru Joined: 09/12/2017 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1678 |
Thanks mate, this will have to get put aside for now so I can finish the other bits of the inverter. Glad there was no smoke. Cheers Caveman Mark Off grid eastern Melb |
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