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MasterCATZ
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Joined: 25/03/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 52

Posted: 08:43pm 18 Dec 2015

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I have a gast regenerative blower
http://www.gastmfg.com/support_documents/70-6000rev_L.pdf

now where I am confused is on the motor the label has

P1-line labeled as L1
P2 - Insulated ( Done)
5,3,2 tied and Insulated ( Done)
4-line labeled as L2

what I am unsure about is what wire ( L1,L2) goes Neutral Active
single phase

or will it not matter ?

also I am unsure if I can Ground this ?

to be honest I was quite surprised to NOT see an earthing connection not that it did not stop me bolting one on

Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333

Posted: 01:06am 19 Dec 2015

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The basics is its a DC motor so it will make no difference to which terminal (L1 & L2) the active and neutral goes to.

With no earth it would fall into the category of a double insulated item, which requires no earth wire, much the same as any mains drill or grinder you will buy nowdays.

Do not add a earth if it was not there to start with.

Pete.

Sometimes it just works

MasterCATZ
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Joined: 25/03/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 52

Posted: 09:02am 19 Dec 2015

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Thanks for confirming what I was thinking , as this item is missing its junction box I was unsure if it originally had a run capacitor or something else

I was just assuming because it was USD stock that's why no earth was on it , I thought everything in Au needed to be hooked up for ELCB

will remove earth

this will be used near water so I didn't want to get any unexpected tingles

thanks for that

Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333

Posted: 02:57pm 19 Dec 2015

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It would seem I have given you some not totally correct information.

I had missed the link to the blower when I first commented, on checking the link the blower is a induction motor and not a DC motor.

The missing earth is required and would have normally be connected to the metal J box mounted on the motor.

I have 2 blowers here of the same style just different brands than yours, both of mine have a start capacitor, so you need to check for any 2 existing wires that are not a part of the wiring diagram given or they may be in a different location and not in the Jbox. (side of motor etc)

Your wiring would be for the High Voltage method (240v) and not the Low Voltage method (120v)

Pete.

Sometimes it just works

MasterCATZ
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Joined: 25/03/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 52

Posted: 06:44pm 19 Dec 2015

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damn I snipped my earth :S

motor started fine without capacitor's
how ever it's only 100 watts ,
will see how the 200 watt version I have goes another day

I will re-solder the earth wire back on thanks for updated info

yes wired for High Voltage 230V (AU)
I say 230 because that's the new standard
I assumed most users in the forum are AUEdited by MasterCATZ 2015-12-21

Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333

Posted: 03:09am 20 Dec 2015

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The forum is not just AU based and quite universal.

As for the new standard of 230v that is new to me, and would be more likely a derating in standards due to voltage sag in the power grid, so rather than fix the problem a new lower voltage standard has been applied to cover a bigger problem.

Sometimes it just works

yahoo2

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Joined: 05/04/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 1166

Posted: 03:39pm 21 Dec 2015

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the standard changed almost 16 years ago (sigh) it was just after the millennium.

it became nominal 230v/400v +10% -6%

the rule about voltage drop under load allows an additional -5%
so they are allowed 205-253v

in practice the power companies try and keep to nominal 230v +10% -2% which is 225-253v
surprise surprise, same as the old nominal 240v standard.

the intention of the international body was to end up with a worldwide standard of 230v +6% -6% but they bottled it and never followed through.
unfortunately appliances and power supplies are designed to run optimally up to 230V +6%. so at 253v the caps are running hot and have a reduced lifespan.Edited by yahoo2 2015-12-23

I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not...

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