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Forum Index : Electronics : Win and Solar Connections
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robbo Regular Member  Joined: 25/03/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 71 |
Hey there Everyone, Just a quick (simple) question. I have been given one of those Briefcase Solar panels, about 17 watts. I already have a turbine setup, and regulator etc. My Question is, -how do I add the solar to the same. The whole solar thing comes with regulator and connections and everything, but "da son dont shine ",where the batteries are. So I was thinking of adding to the existing cableing from the Turbine. Is it as simple as positive to positve, and negative to negative, or Do I have to add Diodes. If so, which ones and how many ??? Thanks in advance. "the Earth was not given to us, by our fathers, rather, it is lent to us by our children". |
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Gill Senior Member  Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
G'day robbo, Yes it's pretty much that simple. You will need a blocking diode on the solar line. If it comes with a junction box then fit in there to either + or - line. Just ensure it is orientated the correct way. Use a Schottky is best however any diode above about 2 amps will do fine. The wind gen has its own blocking diode in the form of the rectifier so neither power source will be loosing power through the other. I'm assuming the rectifier is up at the mill and the regulator is at the battery and you are connecting in between. As the wind gen already has a shunt regulator or diversion controller, the little bit extra that solar panel puts in is very unlikely to ever exceed the max rating even if it ever could. Don't waste a panel by leaving it in the shed. Connect it up and get it working for you. No worries.  was working fine... til the smoke got out. Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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| robbo Regular Member Joined: 25/03/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 71 |
Ok, Great, Thanks Gill. Always a pleasure. I have a IN5822- v52a, and a TVR4n-Eada, available to me, the later is the smaller one. I assume the first is 52 amps ? Dont know what the second one is ? I am worried about voltage drop as my Mill doesn't produce much as the wind has been very poor for the last 4 months. Does it make sense that If I add it to the solar cell circuit wire, then it wont add voltage drop with my Mill wire. You assume correct to say the Bridge rectifier is at the mill end , and the regulator is at the battery end.  I've always wanted to use the nuke icon !"the Earth was not given to us, by our fathers, rather, it is lent to us by our children". |
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| Robb Senior Member Joined: 01/08/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 221 |
Sound a lot like a 1N5822 1N5822 datasheet 40 volt 3 amp  |
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| robbo Regular Member Joined: 25/03/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 71 |
I think maybe a 3 amp Diode will not be sufficient, as the mill outputs far more than that. The diode will have to stop the highest output of amps by the mill, going into the cell. Isn't that correct ? Also, in the specs, the 1N5822, has a voltage range of 20 to 40 Volts. What happens under the 20 Volt range ? Is this where the voltage is dropped. (remember these are 12 volt cells?) It looks like I have to go bigger ? "the Earth was not given to us, by our fathers, rather, it is lent to us by our children". |
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oztules Guru  Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686 |
If your wind turbine is already connected to the batteries, and the solar system comes complete to connect straight to the batteries, then that's all you have to do. Isolators must already be in the solar regulator. They won't see each other. just connect both to the batteries as if neither of the other existed. It would only be if the solar has no controller, then the blocking diode would be necessary (only on the solar cell), but this does not appear to be the case here, you have said it has all the bells and whistles, so you should be able to connect as if there were no turbine present at all. .........oztules Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth |
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| Gill Senior Member Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
3 Amps is fine. It need only pass the solar current as the mill current is blocked. You misunderstand the data sheet. The 1N5822 is just one of three in a series that range from 20V to 40V and the 1N5822 is the 40V one so no problems there either(unless you go over the 40V). I understand you want to connect the solar panel only some distance from the battery and use the heavy mill DC cable to reach the battery. That is similar to my setup here. You are correct thinking because the blocking diode is in the solar line it will not add a voltage drop to the mill. was working fine... til the smoke got out. Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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| oztules Guru Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686 |
Gill, If we put a blocking diode between the battery and the solar controller, would that not give the solar controller a false report as to the battery voltage (because of the diode drop). I would have expected a blocking diode between the solar cell and the solar controller. .........oztules Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth |
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| robbo Regular Member Joined: 25/03/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 71 |
Hang on everyone. What I was wanting to do was ADD the solar panel to the Cable from the Mill. This means that the panel can be located up near the mill, (but out of the shade of it. I was hoping the amps from the mill wouldn't interfere with the Solar cell. Also, I just thought of, I would not be able to short circuit (brake) the mill, if it is on the same cable as the cell (as you are not supposed to s/c the cell). Maybe I have to have two separate cables, and two separate regulators, for this reason. "the Earth was not given to us, by our fathers, rather, it is lent to us by our children". |
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| Gill Senior Member Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
robbo, Well that's adding a another aspect and may not suit your setup. If you are running slip rings then it's unlikely you'd need a connector at the tower base for untwisting DC cable. This is a perfect place to add your solar and your shorting link/switch, all to work without smoking things up. Oz, I agree with what you say BUT, I am expressly suggesting to not fit the solar controller. "SOLAR PANEL ONLY" does away with it as is better considering it would not be sensing true battery voltage but battery voltage plus line loss. I have understood the sun and the mill to be some distant from the shaded battery site and the purpose of the query. I felt due to the small solar output (1.4A max)the existing shunt regulator will cope with it too, though admittedly no capacity for it has been given. was working fine... til the smoke got out. Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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| oztules Guru Joined: 26/07/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1686 |
Now I'm with the program... thanks Gill Village idiot...or... just another hack out of his depth |
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