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Solar Mike Guru Joined: 08/02/2015 Location: New ZealandPosts: 1138
Posted: 02:40am 18 Sep 2018
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Last week I ordered a quality 500g roll of (horrors) lead based Sn63Pb37 0.5mm solder from RS #547-304, reason being my last roll of 5 core multi-core purchased 30 years ago will soon run out. I tried to get one with 2% silver but no longer available in NZ, in fact its hard to get any Pb based solder, the range of options is rapidly vanishing in our world of non-harmful substances.
WTF! this single roll came plastered in stickers *** Warning *** signs everywhere, over 10 pages of finely written text documents outlining every possible malady that may be got from using it, I especially liked the one saying wear gloves when handling and don't eat, FFS! do they expect one to wear gloves whilst soldering up my PCBS, is this what they are teaching young tech's now, no wonder the current breed of young "Makers" plug everything in.
Rate this is going it will soon be illegal to purchase, you may ask why not use non-lead based, well its crap for smd work unless it contains 10% silver, even then it melts at too high a temperature.
Cheers Mike
johnmc Senior Member Joined: 21/01/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 282
Posted: 07:18am 18 Sep 2018
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Been there done that, my 30 year old resin is almost gone, only use it for special jobs. Bought 1 lot from China quoted Sn 63 PB 37 almost useless., appears crystalline.
cheers john
johnmc
Dinosaur Guru Joined: 12/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 311
Posted: 07:42pm 18 Sep 2018
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Hi All
Haven't posted for a long time, BUT check the forum regularly. Currently in the US as consulting Engineer and having left most of my "good tools" in Australia, had to buy a roll of solder and small soldering iron.
The solder seems to behave well. www.aimsolder.com SN60 PB40 0.032" dia. (0.81mm)
However what puzzles me more is how fast the soldering tips eat away. Had to assemble a dozen boards with idc connectors, and the tips started of being 1.5mm at the tip, but by the end had burned away to 4mm dia. Total time to do the job was about 4 hours.
Is that just simply cheap soldering iron temp control, or are you guys using later technology (Ceramic tips ????)
RegardsRegards Hervey Bay Qld.
tinyt Guru Joined: 12/11/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 438
Posted: 01:22am 19 Sep 2018
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Water soluble fluxes are more corrosive than rosin based, maybe one reason the soldering tip gets eaten away faster. Also, they have to be cleaned within 48 hours of application. No residue should be left especially under large surface mount chips or you will have a ticking time bomb if you have un-tented vias under them - my experience.
Dinosaur Guru Joined: 12/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 311
Posted: 01:50am 19 Sep 2018
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Hi All
The boards are only idc connectors and screw terminals, but I appreciate the advice all the same. I wonder though, what are the different materials that the tips are made from?
The Weller soldering station I have stored away doesn't exhibit such erosion.
RegardsRegards Hervey Bay Qld.
isochronic Guru Joined: 21/01/2012 Location: AustraliaPosts: 689
Posted: 08:46am 19 Sep 2018
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I think the Weller has an iron-plated tip (ironic eh since they all are called "soldering irons" ) to prevent corrosion.
AFAIK metallic (ie 100%) tin is not stable below 13 deg C.. eventually crumbles to grey tin powder.. bit of a worry.Edited by chronic 2018-09-20
Tinker Guru Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904
Posted: 10:43am 19 Sep 2018
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I'm not familiar with the term "un-tented via". Can you educate me please? Wiki seems to think that term does not exist .Klaus
wiseguy Guru Joined: 21/06/2018 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1156
Posted: 01:45pm 19 Sep 2018
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An untented via is a top of pcb trace to bottom of pcb trace connection through a plated through hole. If the donut (annular ring around the plated through hole top and bottom, like a solder pad ) is covered in the green solder masking (the hard to get off stuff) it is called "tented"If at first you dont succeed, I suggest you avoid sky diving.... Cheers Mike
Solar Mike Guru Joined: 08/02/2015 Location: New ZealandPosts: 1138
Posted: 08:40pm 19 Sep 2018
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I have a 30 year old "Dick Smith" temperature controlled solder station. and its 3 tips are in great condition, don't know what they are plated in but have only ever used the rosin multi-core solder.
Another station here is a Chinese "Hako" clone, came with about 10 tips, the couple I use regularly started crapping out after a couple of days use, plating on them just vanishes, got more tips from different supplier, some very highly magnetic so not made of copper, plating on those is also poor quality.
Don't know if there is a moral to this, don't purchase cheap from China and expect quality, or purchase here in NZ at about 10x the price and they are still cheap knockoffs with same poor performance. Perhaps I should take the tips to local electroplaters and get them nickle or tin plated.
Cheers Mike
Dinosaur Guru Joined: 12/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 311
Posted: 08:53pm 19 Sep 2018
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Hi All
Mike , perhaps Hard Chroming would be the ultimate. I so like a tip that is about 1.5mm at the end, but with a slight spade shape. If Hard Chroming worked, then you could even shape the tip exactly to accommodate the flat pins of an idc connector. (if that was your most frequent use)
RegardsRegards Hervey Bay Qld.
hotwater Senior Member Joined: 29/08/2017 Location: United StatesPosts: 120
Posted: 11:52pm 19 Sep 2018
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Is it just me? I've soldered for 50 years and and considered myself quite an artist at it. Now I can't solder Chinese connectors to save my life. What are they making this crap out of. Still use lead and thought that was more forgiving.
Solar Mike Guru Joined: 08/02/2015 Location: New ZealandPosts: 1138
Posted: 12:49am 20 Sep 2018
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Solder doesn't stick to chrome, so I don't think that will work.
Just thinking my plasma welder has an 8000 degree C plasma jet coming out of the nozzle, which doesn't corrode, the metal is made from constantan a copper alloy, so would make ideal tips, no idea what it can be purchased from though.
Solar Mike Guru Joined: 08/02/2015 Location: New ZealandPosts: 1138
Posted: 12:51am 20 Sep 2018
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Dunno, I have to add some extra active rosin flux whenever soldering those.
Dinosaur Guru Joined: 12/08/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 311
Posted: 03:08am 20 Sep 2018
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Hi All
Wikipedia describes it quite well: Constantan is a copper–nickel alloy also known as Eureka, Advance, and Ferry.[1] It usually consists of 55% copper and 45% nickel.[2] Its main feature is its resistivity, which is constant over a wide range of temperatures. Other alloys with similarly low temperature coefficients are known, such as manganin (Cu86Mn12Ni2).
Also available in different diameter rods. http://www.goodfellow.com/A/Constantan-Resistance-Alloy-Rod.html No price on the site though.Regards Hervey Bay Qld.
Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me.
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