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Forum Index : Windmills : Turbine Blades
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Sod Buster Newbie Joined: 13/12/2014 Location: Northern IrelandPosts: 16 |
Anyone any experience of Windy Nation blades was thinking of the 35" windgrabber aluminium blades. Have always felt wood was best but we are coming into winter weather isnt good for unheated workshop and I want to get going again. I had a disaster at the weekend blades were wrecked on my turbine wondering if I could buy blades rather than start to make them again. Has any one any idea if these blades would be suitable for my f&p generator see performance table on above page. Any help suggestions would be very much appreciated A professor is someone who knows more and more about less and less |
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yahoo2 Guru Joined: 05/04/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1166 |
My experience (with the hyperspin) is they lose TSR as the windspeed increases, it is maybe due to turbulence from the front edge of the blade affecting lift. the blades have an upper rpm limit and not much power as they approach that limit. so the wind speed/ power window is pretty narrow. on the plus side, they look good, they are quiet, they probably wont explode from over rev-ing. If you are looking for power then a prefab GE 222 or fiberglass Chinese blade is a better option. Personally I would bolt some old cricket bats or hockey sticks on the mill until you can build some new blades, but my sense of humour is not to most peoples tastes. WINDMILLS ARE SERIOUS BUSINESS PEOPLE !!! I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not... |
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Sod Buster Newbie Joined: 13/12/2014 Location: Northern IrelandPosts: 16 |
Thanks Yahoo2 for reply I take it from your reply you feel my blades have exploded due to over rev-ing. I cant understand why they seemed to pull out of hub assembly the shank of the blades are still in place in the hub. They don't appear to have sheered backwards but disintegrated along a line where the retaining bolt went threw them. I take it you strongly favour wood its just that these blades took 2 years from start to finish. Is any particular wood better than other I normally use standard soft wood from local builders merchant or would the GE222 blades suit my output in the table. You mention Chinese blades can't say I have ever seen any of them, have you any experience with Chinese and with their reputation I don't know if you could trust them. Thanks again I would love to get it going again having only very recently got batteries controller and finally dump load sorted. I would be a bit nervous as is my other half as the blades wakened us when they hit the bedroom wall (70-80 meters away). A professor is someone who knows more and more about less and less |
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yahoo2 Guru Joined: 05/04/2011 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1166 |
from left riven, quarter sawn, standard cut Can you see the difference in grain direction? the timber on the right will split through the centre. A timber that is more brittle will crack across the grain when it is flexed or crushed. I dont have any experience with Northern European timber but I would guess that a quarter sawn oak that is laminated is in a different league to a single piece of plank cut softwood, probably 10 to 20 times the strength and durability. Unfortunately proper timber is a dying/dead industry, your chances of finding something suitable quickly is very slim. I dont know if David Moller still makes blades, he used to trade as royal wind and solar. I'm not expressing an opinion about what happened to your old blades or what is the best just listing some options. Gotta go, catch you later yahoo I'm confused, no wait... maybe I'm not... |
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Sod Buster Newbie Joined: 13/12/2014 Location: Northern IrelandPosts: 16 |
Thanks Yahoo2 for your opinions i'm very interested in why it failed and the best to replace them with. David Moller is still online his blades seem to be parallel where we have always used twisted blades. Thanks again A professor is someone who knows more and more about less and less |
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