 Notice. New forum software under development. It's going to miss a few functions and look a bit ugly for a while, but I'm working on it full time now as the old forum was too unstable. Couple days, all good. If you notice any issues, please contact me. |
Forum Index : Windmills : Turbine Brake Switch
| Author | Message | ||||
| Irishrover Newbie  Joined: 28/01/2015 Location: IrelandPosts: 10 |
Hallo to the forum . Just wondering does anyone out there have a diagram for wind turbine brake switch . I have a three throw on off on switch with 6 terminals , 3 each side . Cant seem to find anything on net . Cheers . |
||||
Gizmo Admin Group  Joined: 05/06/2004 Location: AustraliaPosts: 5078 |
Is it a 3 phase turbine, you have 3 wires you need to short out? If so, then wire the switch like this... 1 ----| |---- 2 3 ----|--| | | where 1, 2 and 3 are the 3 wires from the turbine, and | is a switch terminal looking at the back. Wire 3 joins to both middle connectors. This is connected before the bridge rectifiers. Never a good idea to short a turbine when its spinning fast, you stand a good chance of burning it out. Better to short out before the expected winds, or if you can furl the tail to pull it out of the wind. Glenn The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now. JAQ |
||||
| kitestrings Senior Member  Joined: 23/04/2014 Location: United StatesPosts: 102 |
I agree. It makes a great parking brake though. To be clear, if it wasn't already, I think what Glenn's suggesting is a double-pole, double-throw switch where the two poles are vertical (right & left), and the center pair is the common terminal. When the blades of the switch are down the phase leads are separated; when the blades are up the phase leads are shorted. What I like about this configuration is that besides only needing a 2-pole switch, is it doesn't need to be particularly heavy, as it is never breaking load during braking. ~ks |
||||
| Irishrover Newbie Joined: 28/01/2015 Location: IrelandPosts: 10 |
Thanks guys that worked spot on . Bought switch on eBay from China i think . Came without any sort of diagram . Just an update on my own project . Got the smart drive , A Samsung 36 pole stator 48 magnet rotor . Had to get some engineering done ,not easy here to get one offs done .Any how after a few weeks got the shaft sorted and 2 hubs one to mount the stator and one to mount the blades .Put it all together and did some bench testing .All off load . Some of my figures . 35v at 125 RPM .100v at 340 RPM .190v at 630 RPM .250v at 800 RPM . Factory wound stator .What do ye think ? Oh by the way wille im here , question for the experienced members . Im going for 2.5 mtr diamater blades .What sort of RPM might i expect in say 4 to 5 meters per second wind ? Anyone any ideas . As this is my first turbine id appreciate any ideas or input ! Cheers Noel |
||||
| Gizmo Admin Group Joined: 05/06/2004 Location: AustraliaPosts: 5078 |
Hi Noel Whats your battery voltage? 12, 24, 48? What blades are you using. The GOE222 are a good match for the F&P, but you can hand carve timber blades too for good results. Glenn The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now. JAQ |
||||
| Irishrover Newbie Joined: 28/01/2015 Location: IrelandPosts: 10 |
Thanks Glenn ,Im going for grid tied setup . Looking at either The SMA 1100 LV Windy Boy or the Mastervolt Windmaster 500 . The Windmaster 500 looks attractive with an operating range of between 35-150v 525w output .Im making a set of pvc blades at the moment 2.5 mtrs diamater . I think the GEO222 blades are only avalible in AUS . Would cost me a fortune to get them shipped over here .Thanks again for the help Noel  |
||||
 Print this page |
