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Forum Index : Windmills : Wood blades-Weatherproofing
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| Throgdor Newbie  Joined: 26/01/2012 Location: United StatesPosts: 22 |
What are some weatherproofing options for wood (pine / spruce) windmill blades? I've read of folks using oil based paint, and I think I saw mention somewhere of Linseed oil. What have you used and what do you recommend? |
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Tinker Guru  Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904 |
It would depend on where you live climate wise. If you are in the higher latitudes you might get away with a clear finish (the wood grain shows) but if you are in the tropics a good 2 pack paint job is hard to beat. Klaus |
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| Throgdor Newbie Joined: 26/01/2012 Location: United StatesPosts: 22 |
I'm in what I guess would be sub tropics. Very humid in South Mississippi USA. What is a 2 pack paint job? |
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Don B Senior Member  Joined: 27/09/2008 Location: AustraliaPosts: 190 |
A clear finish might look nice, but it is softer and much more subject to attack by UV radiation, and will never last as long. A 2 pack paint will probably be polyurethane or maybe epoxy based, and will not begin to harden until the 2 components are mixed. Use white, as this colour is the most resistant to UV degradation. If you do use a 2 pack paint, follow the paint manufacturer's directions carefully, including their recommended fillers, primers, and undercoats, to ensure that every coat is compatible with what is underneath it. Mixing paint systems is always risky. You should also try to obtain some of the tape used on helicopter rotors to protect the leading edge of the blades from erosion if you want to get the absolute longest lasting job. Regards Don B |
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| Throgdor Newbie Joined: 26/01/2012 Location: United StatesPosts: 22 |
Thanks Don! That cleared up what a 2 pack paint is for me. I am still in the trial stages on making good uniform blades that are fairly consistent, but closing in on my first set. Still loads of trial and error before I have a set I want to pour a bunch of money into to preserve. I had figured on white paint and a couple coats of simple oil base paint for the first set or 2. But now I know what to get when it is time. (I have even thought about using fiberglass resin.) T |
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| Tinker Guru Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904 |
Please don't use 'fiberglass' resin on wood - it won't last. By 'fiberglass' I mean a polyester type resin that is mixed with just a few drops of catalyst. Use epoxy resin instead but do include a white filler in the final coat or use white paint on the epoxy encapsulated & sanded wood smooth surface. Epoxy has a mixing ratio depending on brand and can be anything from 2:1 to 5 or 6:1. The first is the resin, the second the hardener. The correct mix is shown on the container. Usually measured by volume but some types can also be measured by weight. If you have never used epoxy before - its a 2 pack - please read up on it as its critical to get it right. The 'Gougeon Brothers website has heaps of info about epoxy. Klaus |
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| Throgdor Newbie Joined: 26/01/2012 Location: United StatesPosts: 22 |
I did a search on "Gougeon Brothers" and came up with some info. Thank you. (I had assumed that fiberglass would work as I know fiberglass is used in boat's marine construction. Still not sure why it would not last, but I'll take your word for it.) |
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| Tinker Guru Joined: 07/11/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 1904 |
What's commonly referred to as 'fiberglass' (at least here in Australia) is a layup of glass cloth & chopped strand glass mat encapsulated in polyester resin or vinyl ester resin etc. and an outer layer of gelcoat. That mix works very well for 'fiberglass' boat construction. However, this type of resin does not adhere very well to wood. You might have heard of older wooden boats that were given a new life with a 'fiberglass' coat which subsequently de-laminated. On the other hand, Epoxy resin makes a wonderful wood glue and is excellent for wood encapsulation but it must be protected from UV exposure. Klaus |
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| VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539 |
Hi All When I used wooden blades I used a two pack epoxy resin called everdure as a base coat, it is a thin resin designed to soak well into the wood structure and is anti fungal as well, It is a Epicraft product and I see it is still supplied by Chandlers. several coats then a compatible epi craft white boat paint and it will last for 5 years or more, on refinishing a good sanding and several more coats last the best of anything I tried. All the best Bob Foolin Around |
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Gizmo Admin Group  Joined: 05/06/2004 Location: AustraliaPosts: 5078 |
Yeah I agree, you need something thats going to soak a few mm into the wood. I had a set of timber blades that were painted in enamel, tough, but as soon as you get a tiny hole on the leading edge, water gets in and under the paint, and its downhill from there. Same with fibreglass, its OK until there is a hole or crack in the glass/epoxy layer. Glenn The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now. JAQ |
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| bvan1941 Newbie Joined: 06/05/2010 Location: United StatesPosts: 24 |
Guy, they make a "penetrating epoxy" that does what you all are trying to do with other schemes. "Smith Industries" sells this and it is the porosity of water. It bonds very well as epoxy is a "glue" the rest is not a glue and therefore dosen't bond well. Most people with vintage boats use this to repair rot, prevents water intrusion and strengthen the wood. Be advised you get what you pay for and nothing that one really needs is cheap! Be aware you have to balance your rotor after all this is complete. Good luck, Bill Bill |
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