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Forum Index : Windmills : LG Washing Machine DD motor

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Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 05:09pm 28 Jan 2012
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Hi - I need some guidance with a problem I have on my hands.
I have built a wind generator from a LG washing machine DD motor and
the cogging is extremely severe when applying light loads.

I have looked at what is on the site but not too sure if I should section
the coils as they are already 12 coils per phase and wired 3 phase with
12 magnets.

I am not sure what battery configuration I am going to be charging, either 12 or 24 v.
My aim is to move my light off then grid by the end of June.
My turbine is fashioned on the Lentz design.

Question should I section the motor from 3 phase to 6 phase to reduce the cogging.

regards
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 09:27pm 28 Jan 2012
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Is the problem getting started or after it has started turning. If it is the initial startup have you tried fileing the long edges on the ends of coils so that they are rounded, each one will look like a speed bump. It helps a lot with the F & P Motors.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Fish
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Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 11:24am 29 Jan 2012
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Greetings - Madness, I have not installed the blades as yet. It is when I turn it by hand that
I feel that the turbine will need a hurricane to get it turning. Without the rectification
diodes in, it does spins freely.

I have not dressed the coil poles as yet; I was looking at more changing the configuration.
Madness, I’m hesitant to change the configuration as it seems that the magnets play a
major part if one can change or not.

Here is SA it is difficult to get hold of the DD motors and I paid an arm and a leg for mine.
So I need to be sure what I do is correct, I’ll look at rounding the pole pieces

Thanks
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 12:09pm 29 Jan 2012
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You better check your diodes, I think you will find you are creating a short which is acting as an electrical brake.
Have a look at the Standard F&P wiring it is the first on this link.
Wiring Diagram Edited by Madness 2012-01-30
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
Fish
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Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 12:38pm 29 Jan 2012
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The diodes are fine, tested and turns a small dc fan.
The page where you pointed me too also shows configuration
change to 6 phase
 
Madness

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Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 12:43pm 29 Jan 2012
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It should be no harder to start with the diodes connected, I am sure something is wrong, could be just one that is backwards. I think you need to focus on the present fault rather than extra phases.

There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
turnymf
Regular Member

Joined: 04/10/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 84
Posted: 01:06pm 29 Jan 2012
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Gotta agree with madness
Shouldn't make it harder to turn by just adding diodes unless one is crook or in the wrong way
Cogging is when the mags align with the poles of the stator, attracted to the core and thus resist rotation, as you can spin freely this doesn't sound like your trouble
Does it rotate freely with diodes and no load?
 
BobMann

Senior Member

Joined: 30/06/2011
Location: United States
Posts: 134
Posted: 01:08pm 29 Jan 2012
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Hello
I have spent a many a year on upgrading the F&P stator to be a good work horse.
There are 2 thing at work here.

1 cogging is the fource to break free the magnet fron the steel poles with open wires.

2 the fource to make power in to a power source kind of like blowing through a straw.

Here is VID to show about this and what I did to over come this.


Mann Smart Controller

Bob Mann
Tree Top Wind Mill



 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 03:47pm 29 Jan 2012
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Greeting All
Just maybe one of the diodes are fried, I’ll check them again.
I'm hooked on the controller, is it available on the market?
On open circuit the machine turns freely, but add a tiny load
then we need to look for Popeye for help.

I am sure the controller is what I need to free up the machine.
If I am able to source another DD motor, then I’ll attempt to
reconfigure the coils
 
Madness

Guru

Joined: 08/10/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2498
Posted: 09:34pm 29 Jan 2012
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Try it connected to a battery, there should be no current flow until it gets up to at least 100 RPM. You don't need any fancy controller to achieve that.
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
 
turnymf
Regular Member

Joined: 04/10/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 84
Posted: 11:25pm 29 Jan 2012
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  BobMann said   Hello
I have spent a many a year on upgrading the F&P stator to be a good work horse.
There are 2 thing at work here.

1 cogging is the fource to break free the magnet fron the steel poles with open wires.

2 the fource to make power in to a power source kind of like blowing through a straw.

Here is VID to show about this and what I did to over come this.


Bob Mann
Tree Top Wind Mill




How many years have you been working on smart drives Bob?

Fish, Steve's controller is still development stage and far from retail
How big is the lenz you are thinking about using?
 
BobMann

Senior Member

Joined: 30/06/2011
Location: United States
Posts: 134
Posted: 11:56pm 29 Jan 2012
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It is well docmented how long my work on Smart Drives and I think I would know when Steves
bourd is ready for prime time seeing I have funded some of it.
Please just do the same test spin up one by hand in to a battery and show watts and volts and post a VID I am shore ever one would love to see it.

If some one is looking for low cost Lenz I have 2 sets of 3- 4 fts.
I have moved up to the C floating Rotor Blade.

Bob Mann



How many years have you been working on smart drives Bob?

Fish, Steve's controller is still development stage and far from retail
How big is the lenz you are thinking about using?
 
turnymf
Regular Member

Joined: 04/10/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 84
Posted: 09:30am 30 Jan 2012
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  BobMann said   It is well docmented how long my work on Smart Drives and I think I would know when Steves
bourd is ready for prime time seeing I have funded some of it.




About a year according to your utube of 24/4/2011, ever heard of spell check Bob?


Fish. how many watts do you think you use for your lighting?









 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 03:42pm 30 Jan 2012
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Just feel uncomfortable when an attract occurs, mistakes creep in all the time.

First, I have designed the blade length to be 1200mm on a 500mm radius.
The estimated wattage I use per night is round about 1200 watts.
Have already moved some of my light to 220v LED type lights.

The system I am putting together is: solar/Wind charging a set of batteries then
inverting back to 220v AC. It’s really about building the wind generator than going green, but if I
can show the wife positive spinoffs, then she will fund my other projects.
 
turnymf
Regular Member

Joined: 04/10/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 84
Posted: 11:43pm 31 Jan 2012
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I hope your in a windy spot, otherwise a lenz of that size will only give you a small percentage of that wattage

How are your diodes?

I use flattery of my misses, and if that doesn't work a bit of in out does the trick
 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 02:06pm 01 Feb 2012
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Turnymf – thanks for staying on-board. Not sure that my turbine is a Lenz, it is just fashioned along those lines. I have had one up, just the blades, no load, and it was spinning at about 6Km/h, that’s about average for our windy months. Now that I have a motor I can go ahead and put the unit together. This is why I here now to find out about the cogging effect.

I have changed the diodes and it has made a difference, I am now going to complete the wind turbine, and let see what results I get. The cogging has made me want to increase the size of my blade to 1200 high by 600 radiuses and the blade size 280mm by 50mm.

Main principal of the VAWT in my case is to charge batteries.
As for the wife comment, that was to light the mood.
Edited by Fish 2012-02-03
 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 06:41pm 09 Feb 2012
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Reading through the post. I need to post another question to whoever has the experience
in building a VAWT with the washing machine motor. I want to use my VAWT to charge 24V batteries.

Question: Will a VWAT of the size I am building, read previous post, do the job.?
I have to use VWAT, as I am in a built up area.
 
turnymf
Regular Member

Joined: 04/10/2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 84
Posted: 01:01am 10 Feb 2012
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Hi Fish
That really depends on a few things
How much load are you applying to the batteries?
How windy is your location?
How efficient is the mill at extracting energy from the wind ?

 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 03:29pm 10 Feb 2012
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Thanks Turnymf - I'll carry on with the project and see what results I get from the mill. My inverter arrived yesterday, now waiting for the battries.

keep you postedEdited by Fish 2012-02-13
 
Fish
Newbie

Joined: 28/01/2012
Location: South Africa
Posts: 18
Posted: 09:07am 08 Aug 2012
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Hi Guys
After some delay my project is again on track. I now need to
rewire my stator to produce 24v with 6-8km wind.

The stator is a 36 coil hub,I was just about to rewire to
3x4coil system when I checked and found the write-up on the 7 phase
system. What I like was the no cogging in this configuration.

My question is, with a 36 coils system can I go 6x6coil and get the same effect,
no cogging and enough watts to charge a 24v battery system ?

Here in South Africa the DD motors are like hens teeth and very pricey.
thus the concern of making a error in the configuration.

thanks.

 
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