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Forum Index : Windmills : Fisher & Paykel W/M

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toxsickcity
Newbie

Joined: 28/05/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 8
Posted: 01:01pm 28 May 2011
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Hello,

I am a noob, and I have a question about wiring for the F&P Motor

I am so confused
Pages 7,8,9 http://www.sustainability.ofm.uwa.edu.au/__data/page/83884/F P.pdf

because I am looking at 2 websites and a GRAPH of output power is always great.

can anyone comment on the graph to state if it's realish?
I will buy a .8mm motor and want to wire it based on 80SP on photo I attached
tho requires 280 RPM
I want to use for a VAWT where I believe the RPM would be lower
I guess around 100-400rpm in extreme

I want to know what is best wiring to setup
------------
IS "split into two", so we end up with 2 times 7 coils in series. Best suited to 48 volts or 24 volts in low winds.

Using our naming scheme, this would be a 2X7C

can anyone comment on RPM/AMP/Volts
I have a 24v battery system


Thanks for helping..
Shaun
 
VK4AYQ
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 02:53pm 28 May 2011
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Hi Toxsickcity

You would need a step up gearing to work a F&P on a VAWT depending on the design and size of your machine, between 3 and 5 to 1 ratio.

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
fillm

Guru

Joined: 10/02/2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 730
Posted: 11:03pm 28 May 2011
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Hi Shaun,

If you are wanting low rpms power output I would be using the 60S or 80s stator unmodified. A 60s would start to cut in around 30rpm @ 24V from memory and probably output no more than 250W which would not load a small VAWT excessivly.

I would also recomend twisting the poles or going to the 7 phase conversion to reduse the cogging .

To attach pics ect you have to download them using the "image upload" 2nd from RHT Edited by fillm 2011-05-30
PhillM ...Oz Wind Engineering..Wind Turbine Kits 500W - 5000W ~ F&P Dual Kits ~ GOE222Blades- Voltage Control Parts ------- Tower kits
 
Air Bender
Senior Member

Joined: 25/01/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 206
Posted: 01:24am 29 May 2011
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Hi Shaun

If your are going to run an 80s and want to get 24v in light winds Fillm is right you probably need to run the stator unmodified. I am running 80s series stator unmodified on what is an undersized vawt for the F/P. My mill is set up to cut in at 12 volts. I can only guess at the rpms needed to reach certain voltage outputs but i would guess that you would need around 120rpm or more to get the unmodified 80s up above 24V and that is not that easy to acheive with a vawt in light winds. As Bob said it depends alot on the size and design of your machine.

All the best Dean.
 
Greenbelt

Guru

Joined: 11/01/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 566
Posted: 01:36am 29 May 2011
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HI Shaun,
I looked at the Graph posted at the university and from what I see in the pages of this Forum it looks to be "Realish" The different model F & P's Have very wide characteristics when used as a Alternator. What they don't show is the Hardware needed to get the rpm or Torque required to output a Kilowatt. (Phil M, 2 post's above this one,) Is one of the top authority members on F&P's He Has built lots of em.
Welcome to the Forum.
Here is a little help using the post format buttons Cheers---Roe


Edited by Greenbelt 2011-05-30
Time has proven that I am blind to the Obvious, some of the above may be True?
 
toxsickcity
Newbie

Joined: 28/05/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 8
Posted: 11:05am 29 May 2011
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  fillm said   Hi Shaun,

If you are wanting low rpms power output I would be using the 60S or 80s stator unmodified. A 60s would start to cut in around 30rpm @ 24V from memory and probably output no more than 250W which would not load a small VAWT excessivly.

I would also recomend twisting the poles or going to the 7 phase conversion to reduse the cogging .

To attach pics ect you have to download them using the "image upload" 2nd from RHT


what do you mean by twisting the poles?
I also will most likely de-cog it..
use a file and smoothen to a rounded edge for each coil


250W sound nice, tho I am worried about that graph showing only less then 100W at full speed for series

Lastly

Ideas on protecting from high speed rotation incase it happens.
as in series (unmodified) would mean I would get volts as high 150v?Edited by toxsickcity 2011-05-30
 
Greenbelt

Guru

Joined: 11/01/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 566
Posted: 02:46pm 29 May 2011
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Shaun,
I did some homework for you,,Scroll down about a third page you will see decoging

Cheers-----Roe
How to twist the polesEdited by Greenbelt 2011-05-31
Time has proven that I am blind to the Obvious, some of the above may be True?
 
toxsickcity
Newbie

Joined: 28/05/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 8
Posted: 03:00pm 29 May 2011
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  Greenbelt said   Shaun,
I did some homework for you,,Scroll down about a third page you will see decoging

Cheers-----Roe
How to twist the poles


much thanks

I didnt know it was part of DECOG..

sounded electrical...
 
brucedownunder2
Guru

Joined: 14/09/2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 1548
Posted: 10:37pm 29 May 2011
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Hi Roe,,

Just a clue that I use ..

When I want to re-visit a posting or find out about a particular item, how to do something, Etc,, I just go the "Search" box at the top of the page and fill it in and sometimes 10 or more postings will come up about that subject ..

I've been here for yonks, and still enjoy browsing back through the postings..
Sometimes up to an hour or more ..
Cheers with your building ...

Bruce
Bushboy
 
Air Bender
Senior Member

Joined: 25/01/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 206
Posted: 01:32am 30 May 2011
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Hi Shaun

The problems you you are hitting on with the different voltage outputs between low and high winds i beleive is a universal one and not easy to solve. One thing is that when your mill gets to cut in speed (the voltage your batterys are at) a load will come onto the alternator and it will take quite a bit more wind to push the rpms up past this point. So the size and torqe of your mill makes a differnce here.
I have pivoting wings on my vawt, centrifical force at high rpms push the wings to an angle where they become inefficient which helps as well. (Centrifical force on a vawt can be used to advantage).
My take on this is to try to build my mill to reach higher rpms in light winds by increasing the size and lift of my wings and then restricting the speed in high winds.
I have a very low cut in speed running the 80s unmodified but so far even in the strongest winds over the larst 6 months i havnt seen the voltage output get much over 60 volts.
I would love to rewire the 80s to 2/7 or run the 100s I have but to do this i need to get my rpms up in light winds or only having it producing power during stronger winds.

I hope this helps

Dean.
 
VK4AYQ
Guru

Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 02:48am 30 May 2011
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Hi Shawn & Dean

I wonder if the system I have used might help you, I run my generator in Delta as that is 25% or so more efficient and use two boost modules to get the lower end power.

The smaller one cuts in at 5 volts and is rated at 3 amps
The larger one cuts in a t 10 volts and produces 9 amps both at 27.5 volts to charge 24 volt battery bank.

When the wind picks up the voltage across the main rectifier rises to 27.5 volts and as the modules have equal voltage input to output they cease to conduct and the main rectifier takes over.

This is on one of phills Mills with 2.8 meter blades. With this setup I am getting power from 2 ms up and while th low end is small it adds up. In gusty weather you can see the transitioning between boosters and main rectifier.

As there are heaps of torque from a VAWT I think it would work in your case, just do the windings for your charge voltage and pick up lower voltages in the boost modules.
Keep them in delta for maximum efficiency.
Just a suggestion.

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
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