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Forum Index : Windmills : My new toy

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shawn

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Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 09:47am 16 Dec 2010
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Ok time to share my new mill so far, nothing new just puting together others hard work!
hope all will work when finished
first some pictures of magnet plates 360 diameter 10mm thick all lazer cut these will have 50 mm diameter 15 mm thick n52 neos 12 per plate
these are at powder coaters now

and my state of art fine tuned coil winder I did not put my sons boots on


and a finished coil 50mm hole in the middle




and trailer hub with 16mm tapped holes for althread



I have built the mold for the stattor and am not sure about round coils or egg shaped or slightly rectangle ???
also have one of petes master pieces on the go sliprings built around car hub for mill to turn easy into the wind.
will post pictures as this progresses.
 
VK4AYQ
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Joined: 02/12/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2539
Posted: 11:07am 16 Dec 2010
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Hi Shawn

Loking good so far mate, like your coil winder and the boots are quite fashionable as well.

All the best

Bob
Foolin Around
 
Gizmo

Admin Group

Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 01:09pm 16 Dec 2010
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Nice work Shawn. I like the impregnated coils, and I see you have wound two coils together.

Looking forward to seeing more photo's as you progress.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333
Posted: 04:19pm 16 Dec 2010
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I like the coil winder very clever!!

Just wondering when your son will get his bike back

Coils look good to, any info on the wire size and number of turns.

How have you impregnated the coil with resin, wet wound, vacuum, or just dipped.

You do realize the slipring idea is pattented, and all royalitys will need to be paid, current rate of 1 cent per ring

Pete.

Ps:- now those boots are real kiwi boots........Baah

It looks as though he has trouble with left and right, or is that a kiwi thing. Edited by Downwind 2010-12-18
Sometimes it just works
 
JimBo911

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Joined: 26/03/2009
Location: United States
Posts: 262
Posted: 06:07pm 16 Dec 2010
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Now thats the first time I have ever seen such a coil winder. Ahhhh yes the minds of do it your selfers. DIY

Very nice indeed.

So now we have a few AXFX machines on the way.

Keep up the good work.

Jim
Jim
 
shawn

Senior Member

Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 10:09pm 16 Dec 2010
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Hi guys first pete i will definitly do my slipring just a little diferent
so no can do on making you any coin!!

thought of using old 100 f&p stators to get the wire as they are as coman as old tea bags here but i would have to wind 4 in hand and just got lazy removing the wire.
The wire size is 1.6mm two in hand 40 turns trick is not to lose count while son brushes resin on while talking constantly (6 year olds always talk)

If you like my coil winder you will love my lathe here i am lathing some car bog i built up hub for rings.

after its built up enough i will put on ring and use it as a dam to full with resin
then cut the rings maby on my lathe.







and here is my mold for the stator stator will be 460 wide and 16mm thick.










this will be all for a while as hay season is here it gets a
little mad


o the gumboots are for all the green wet grass we get here do you guys know watt that stuff looks like?? Edited by shawn 2010-12-18
 
Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333
Posted: 12:35am 17 Dec 2010
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Hmmm see you have one of those cheap Chinese lathes.

Now i have seen one of those wheel hubs before somewhere??

Had you considered using one of the hubs for your mill as they make a nice bolt in assembly, and i think the ball bearings are better than the roller taper bearings..

Pete.
Sometimes it just works
 
shawn

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Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 01:24am 17 Dec 2010
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I thought diferent bearings have been hammerd enough here... its all your fault pete you were just to slow with the post about these. They are great but mag plates are all cut out and powder coated now
shame cos i am going to make the offset from the tower adjustable and this bolt on type hub would have been great.
 
Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333
Posted: 01:46am 17 Dec 2010
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Ok i have broard shoulders... blame me.

I didnt realize you had Toyota's over there and thought it was only Vaxhals you had.

Pete.
Sometimes it just works
 
shawn

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Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 08:05am 05 Jan 2011
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Ok all my hay is in the shed for winter
so time for some fun stuff here is my stattor almost ready to pour





The blue stuff inside one coil is wax I am thinking if I full them up
I could remove after leaving a hole this might help with cooling I read
this some where never heard how it went though.
kids love the wind too!!


 
Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333
Posted: 08:58am 05 Jan 2011
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Looking good.

One thing i notice is you have no glass in the stator, and i know others cast them without glass BUT resin has no strength without glass.

Put a sheet of glass under the coils and another on top.
If you can shove some more in between so much the better.

Glass (fiber that is, not broken beer bottles)will add mass strength compared to no glass.

Pour the stater in at least 2 x 1/2 layers,and allow each layer to set before the next, as a thick pour will result in mass heat in the resin and it will crack and buckle, even smoke if you have too much catalyst in the mix.
For polyester resin weigh the resin and use no more than 2% of catalyst by weight of resin. Thats 2Ml per every 100 grams of resin.
For a thick pour cut this in half (1%), the setting time will be longer but the temperture will be lower in the resin while curing.

The wax will work fine and i have used Plasticine (kids play dough)and even bluetac for a simular purpose.

Take all your wire connections close to one outer surface, so if you ever need to grind into the stator to access them it will be easier.

Still a little unhappy i dont receive the 1 cent per slipring for the design idea.

Pete.
Sometimes it just works
 
shawn

Senior Member

Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 11:45pm 05 Jan 2011
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Ok pete I have a package here for ya, need address.
yes have used fibreglass mat both sides, but you may be on to something with broken glass it is poor at insulating that is why you need to double glaze for the air gap
would it transfer heat better than resin? IT would not upset flux, might not be as strong ???
could be a cheap filler with the vinal ester i will use.
All comments welcome.
 
shawn

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Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 10:13am 06 Jan 2011
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seems that trev and i are working on the same thing!!





Buy puting weight on coils until first beer can full of vinalester sets you
then can full with fibre before finishing you cannot see the mat in the
picture its finer woven than trevs stuff and you have to cut it.
 
shawn

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Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 06:22am 09 Jan 2011
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Ok stattor finished a few miny moon crators on the outside no bubles on the inside
but the stattor has a concave and convex side i mesured about 2 mm max when i put my steel rule across.
so not happy its my first one and i am sure its because i let it set on one side (half done) before finishing this must have twisted up before i finished.
never had much experence with fiberglass it shows a bit










I will put turbine together when i get my magnets and see what the gap is before deciding if i have to build a new one
 
Downwind

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Joined: 09/09/2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 2333
Posted: 07:24am 09 Jan 2011
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Resin will take days/weeks to cure fully and you may have been a little to quick to demold it.

Buckling is often a cause of too thick of a resin layer where heat will build during the first stage of curing, the fact you waited for the first half to cure would not have been the cause, unless it was a thick layer.

Resin appears to self level but it dont very well, so it might just be not filled fully on the lower spots.

No reason you cant sand the outer edges down some to level it up.

If you find it is too buckled to use, then before you throw it away and start again, you could try placing it on a flat tray in a hot oven for a while, the resin will soften some, to allow you to place it on a flat surface with a flat plate ontop and apply weight to it and squash it out straight.

Try it first before taking the heating measure.

Pete.
Sometimes it just works
 
niall1

Senior Member

Joined: 20/11/2008
Location: Ireland
Posts: 331
Posted: 12:53pm 09 Jan 2011
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you could check it a bit Shawn by just mounting and aligning the stator on the hub assembly
after you have it mounted attach a wire to the bearing hub extending it out to track the coils as it rotates (kind off like a record player)you can gradually bend the wire tip to float along the coils , this,l show up the trueness of the coils where the magnet path (the really important bit) will be ..as your using uber strength magnets you might have a little more leway with the airgap as well , this depends a lot on other factors though ...


ps...when your drilling out the stator holes dont do like i did and drill through a copper wire ,..double check everything if you can

pps ...looking back at the pics now i,m a bit worried about the wiring interfering with the stator mounts , its hard to tell ...hopefully theyl be ok Edited by niall1 2011-01-11
niall
 
shawn

Senior Member

Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 02:21am 10 Jan 2011
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Thanks niall and pete yes its not so bad as i first thought i guess with my ignorance i expected it to come out all pretty (not the case) it took some tidying up.
The coils are all inline with each other and the width of the mags is only 50 mm so across 50mm there will not be enough gap difference to worry about i will stick the mags on just leaving them protruding a little.
When i hold the stattor up to light i can see were the wires are so i will check this before drilling mount holes
 
niall1

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Joined: 20/11/2008
Location: Ireland
Posts: 331
Posted: 02:42am 10 Jan 2011
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an x-rayed stator.... ..thats got to be as a first .....looking good

Edited by niall1 2011-01-12
niall
 
shawn

Senior Member

Joined: 30/03/2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 210
Posted: 06:05am 27 Jan 2011
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Hi guys the magnets arrived today (thanks bryan) and could not contain myself so away I went.






above are the powder coated plates I used a compass with a permanent marker to give me an idear were they should go!
notice the mark on the side, would be my luck that i put it all together and the plates repell each other.



I armwrestle horses for a living so am strong
these magnets don't have to ask for respect, they earn it quickly all buy themselves



up high away from the kids awaiting the stainless band and resin.

Guys this is my first build apart from f&p so all coments welcome!!
 
Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 07:58am 27 Jan 2011
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Looking good Shawn. Makes the F&P look small don't it?

Looking forward to hearing how it all goes.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
JAQ
 
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