Posted: 11:01am 22 Jan 2006

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has anyone managed to run multiple F&P Stators in series or parallel  to generate a larger output ?

My plan was to have 3-4 of them on a single shaft and wired together somehow to produce maybe 1200w @12v if possible ? is this possible ? how would i connect the wires together from each stator ?

Steve

Posted: 02:03am 24 Jan 2006

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Hi Steve.

I think Peter is worried about the high currents, you would need some thick wire from the windmill to your batteries. I'm in the same boat, 24 volts is a better system, but my little inverter and water pump are 12 volts, so I have no choice and have to use thick wire.

If you want to connect more than one stator together, you would need to have a bridge rectifier on each stator, and then connect the outputs from the rectifiers together. This is because each stator will be slightly out of phase with the others, so if you connected the outputs together your would create a lot of heat and little power, as the phases would be cancelling eachother out.

Ideally you would want to have the stators out of phase, this will reduce the cogging ( Bruce knows about this ).

Connect multible stators together is the holy grail of the F&P crowd. Its a good idea, we just need to find a way around the mechaincal aspects. It has to be strong and reliable, not easy with those plastic hubs.

Glenn

Posted: 07:59am 24 Jan 2006

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Steve

i can tell you from bitter experience high currents will find every weak spot in your transmission lines and fry them. Direct connection to an inverter could also have some problems the front end could suffer from over voltage and shut down or vapourize.it would of course depend on your loading.

Posted: 08:53am 24 Jan 2006

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Hi Steve

I can tell you is not worth playing around with low voltage (12volt) as going on high amps and everything you wire it up have to be on very heavy duty fitting like lugs, fuses, switchs,etc, so on as you see  many truck,bus and they all run on 24 volt and wire ar half of size than 12 volts and less resistor on the wires . why not try 24 or 36 or 48 volts l do hope that makes sense

lan  

Posted: 06:42pm 24 Jan 2006

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I'm on 24v . Most ups's are 24v so it's easy to make your battery bank 24v and then direct feed to inverter. I use a dc-dc converter to take 14v ,then feed it to the telecom 12v battery bank ,. I then use that 12v for most 12v things around the place . the 24v bank through the ups's is used for 140v stuff. 

  Now, the plastic shell of the F&P is a bit wobbly once u extract the ceramic magnets (I've fitted Neo's)

 LG-  I think has a very similar motor ,and  I believe, has a metal rotor shell. Could someone find out?? because if this is the case then look around for scrapped LG washing machines(I don't think you will find any)

Bruce

Posted: 11:34pm 24 Jan 2006

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Hi Bruce.

Did a bit of a google for you on the LG motor

http://www.stokes-aus.com.au/StokesAP/Manufacturer_Info/LG/L G%20Washing%20Machine/WT-R801%20Exploded%20View.pdf

These beasts are from the early 90's, so there should be some around.

Posted: 02:41am 25 Jan 2006

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hi Bruce

l just had agood look at LG motor on webs site and feel F&P still best machine to play with and l will have alook for LG machine around in fews days and if l find one l will let you know

ian

Posted: 03:13am 25 Jan 2006

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I was talking to Michael from EcoInn in NZ early last year. He said there is a new F&P motor that has no cogging. He has pretty good ties with F&P, and they gave him one of the new motors to play with.

As I see it the real problem with the F&P's is the flimsy plastic hub. The stator is strong enough, but the hub is a weak point once you start adding loads and changing magnets.

Has anyone tried to fill it with resin? Block up the holes, and pour in a cup of resin evenly around the ribs. Then flip it over and do the same to the other site. This should stop any flex in the hub, but I havn't tried it.

Glenn

Posted: 05:57pm 25 Jan 2006

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 Yes,that LG motor looks similar ,and the rotor seems to be more robust-especially if it's steel case.

I'm told that they had a 5 year warranty and anything that goes wrong with them is given straght back to the manufacturer-thats why the washing machine mechanic told me I would be waiting some time before I see any on the junk heap..

He pulled one apart just to have a look ,

 I wondered about filling the rotor with epoxy resin ,but my last go at araldite  glue failed ,it just wont stick for some reason(could be me). any clues?

Bruce

Posted: 06:55am 26 Jan 2006

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Hi Bruce

Araldite  glue will not on this F&P's plastic as they are made in poor

Quality and will become very dry ,brittle and they do crack after  last several years as l have some in my shed approx has already crack near tin wall during the hot weather l guess see someone who are specialises in repairing plastic bumberbar or dashboard for cars as they might know what sort of plastic are .

ian  

Posted: 12:20am 27 Jan 2006

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Anyone ever though of getting a bucket or something about 6-7mm bigger then the magnetic hub. Then positioning the magnetic hub completely centre in the bucket and puting resin around it for some extra strength? You can get metal filled body filler, apparently its extremely strong, very hard to drill once its set.

Posted: 12:22pm 04 Feb 2006

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One way  to have multiple stators/rotors is to use one F&P unit on each end of a Savonius setup.

Notice the top of a unit I am working with at the moment, a second rotor and stator could be put at the top, for low wind speeds rectified outputs can be in series, higher windspeeds, they can be put in parallel.

Cheers

Posted: 11:05am 30 Mar 2006

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hi i use 2 staters at difrent ends and atach prop to 1 stater is easy to get on /off.

 have seprat rectafiers on them,  move stater on 4 bolts few times till no cog and let it go , have them on 3.5 m prop and is angeld to go fast and a 80sp 1 end and 100 series  delta outher end works well in lo wind but do hear some altnater buz threw prop even when unpluged from bat still buzzes bit ,rubber mounted and screws threw rubber pipes helped not quiet enuf yet put lead strips around out side helped bit more,