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Forum Index : Windmills : My F&P Setup
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gblass1 Newbie  Joined: 16/09/2009 Location: United StatesPosts: 11 |
Hi All I'm at a point were my head is spinning and need a little help. About 5 years ago I purchased an F&P Model 60 with a 48 magnet hub and mount from Randy's workshop. I also have the Windy Nation 35" wind grabber blades and the 3 blade hub. I currently have 5kw of solar that is grid tied. My plan is to use a grid tie inverter that will take 3 phase AC input from 22-60 volts AC. Here's the link Grid Tied Inverter 3 phase AC input My hope is this will make up for my reduced solar output in the winter. During the fall and winter months I get winds in the 15-30 mph range. Here is were I need help. What RPM should I expect to get from these blades on the F&P ? How many watts should I plan for when getting the inverter ? With this wide voltage range what would be the best wiring configuration ? Would I be able to use the F&P without rewiring it ? Sorry for all the questions but I'm a machinist and electrical is just not my thing. George Connecticut |
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| VK4AYQ Guru  Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539 |
Hi George I have experimented with the blades you have and found that under 20 mph wind they where not real good, the F&P takes a bit of torque to get going and I believe it would need longer blades to achieve a usable amount of power in the wind range you mention, these blades where designed to go onto a direct drive automotive alternator where the torque requirement was low and RPM high, on the alternator I tried them on they only gave 300 rpm in 20 mph wind and I believe they would be less on a F&P due to the larger stator diameter, to improve the blade torque I put an extension piece in between the hub and the blade 12 long, this increased their torque and speed as they where running with less load. On the alternator I tried them on I got 500 RPM and 300 to 500 watts output at 25 mph. This was a 700 watt Chinese alternator with rotor diameter of 100 mm. the other direct DC connection alternator was a LG motor with Rare earth Magnets fitted and the rpm testing and voltage measurements where done in a lathe, not with blades fitted. I used a five blade configuration. Can you use the alternator without rewinding? yes but use extreme caution. I would use your existing GTI and feed it with high voltage from the F&P via a 3 phase rectifier and a few caps and a choke, on my test rig I got 185 volts AC which ended up at around 230 volts DC after rectification at 550 RPM, by using this method you can use the F&P without rewiring it but be very careful of DC at these voltages as it can be lethal. As a machinist you would be OK with the blade extensions I used 2" x 1/4" MS flat bar, but if you are going the High voltage DC path I would recommend you get some assistance by someone who understands the high voltage DC and can fit an "Isolation Diode" on the inverter input. All the best Bob Foolin Around |
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| gblass1 Newbie Joined: 16/09/2009 Location: United StatesPosts: 11 |
Bob Thanks for the reply. I don't have to use these blades if they are not going to be a good match for the F&P. Do you know of any blades that would be a better match for the F&P? I can certainly make the 12" extensions and try them if no other blades are available. Thanks again for the help. George |
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| VK4AYQ Guru Joined: 02/12/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2539 |
Hi George The blades I would use are the GE 222 marketed here on the forum but am not sure if available in the States they are a medium speed blade with good starting torque. http://www.thebackshed.com/windmill/Trade/AlBladeOrders.asp All the best Bob Foolin Around |
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