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Forum Index : Windmills : shaft connection

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Mickus
Newbie

Joined: 14/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 17
Posted: 04:33am 22 Nov 2011
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How are most connecting hubs to generator shafts?

Are tap and die what most use? Then run the blades in opposite to keep the thread tight while spinning?
 
Bryan1

Guru

Joined: 22/02/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 1344
Posted: 04:58am 22 Nov 2011
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Hi Mick,
I just use a product called a conlock, it's like a taper lock used on Vee pulleys only it is parallel and when tightened it grips on the shaft and the OD bore providing a good lock. For extra security I machine up a thick washer and bolt that I fit on the end of the shaft will a small bit of lock tight. Then I fill the whole void with grease to stop any corrosion and seal it with a cover. I have used this concept now on 2 turbines and the blades have never moved, yet taking it apart is as simple as using 3 of the bolts to loosen the grip lock then sliding the blades off the shaft.

Regards Bryan
 
Mickus
Newbie

Joined: 14/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 17
Posted: 05:25am 22 Nov 2011
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Thanks Bryan

That is what I'm after, where are you sourcing them from in Aust?

I seem to get no descent hits with Google.
 
Bryan1

Guru

Joined: 22/02/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 1344
Posted: 05:31am 22 Nov 2011
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Hi Mick,
Just go ask for them at a bearing shop, I'm sure AWB Bearings would either have them in stock or soon could get them in and they aint that expensive. The ones I used were 25mm bore 50mm OD.

Regards Bryan
 
Mickus
Newbie

Joined: 14/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 17
Posted: 05:39am 22 Nov 2011
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Cheers,

there is one in Brissy which is great.

 
Bryan1

Guru

Joined: 22/02/2006
Location: Australia
Posts: 1344
Posted: 05:58am 22 Nov 2011
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G'day Again Mick,
I'll tell how I set mine up to give you some idea. I used 2 off 6mm plate disks about 300mm diameter and welded in a machined tube that after machining had a 10mm wall thickness. I machined in a recess the made the hole in the rear plate so it was a light press fit then assembled it im press and kept it under pressure while welding the boss. The outer plate bore was machined to be a sliding fit over the boss and I drill in 2 holes thru both plates to suit M10 grade 8 bolts. Now by simply using 3 off clamps I set the blades up so they were 120 degrees apart then just drilled thru the wood and clamped each blade with the clamp on. Now that cover I talked about before went over the outer plate and I used a gasket, to secure it I just tapped some M4 holes. It was a bit of work but this blade set has been going for a few years and has stood the test of time. Also in order to balance the blade I just tack welded on steel stock to the back plate until I got the balance near purfect.

If I ever do have a blade failure this setup can be re-used time and time again so I do feel going that extra mile will be worth in the long run.

Regards Bryan

P.S. with those conlocks you will need to keep the shaft and bore tolerances to 0-+0.05mm and parallel or they could fail.
 
Mickus
Newbie

Joined: 14/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 17
Posted: 06:08am 22 Nov 2011
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Thanks for the info.

I will start with a small unit first and work my way up as I get through the teething problems.

I was considering making a sleeve on the rear of the hub and using three screws in the sleeve but tapping and making it heavy duty would be my downfall I think.

I started laughing when you mentioned the tolerances as they are not far off the diameter of my gen, like I said, Im starting small, just to get the theory and design in my head. Eventually I will move up to the big boys sizes

I will be outputting very small amps, plus I want to incorporate it with a solar system and have it for fishing and camping, mainly on the beach so plenty of breeze.

I will start looking at bearing shops around me for mini versions that I need
 
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