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Forum Index : Windmills : F&P stator rewiring
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Jaffasoft Senior Member  Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
I'm making a dual F&P Wind Turbine as per this thread by Gizmoand. A note to Gizmo: "I'm following in your footsteps, don't know exactly what I'm doing but entrusting your good diagrams and instructions." I bought two second hand 42 pole F&P (think it's .6 ml wiring), will get some photo's up of this as i go and this can end up being a long thread about it's construction, l'l get a YouTube video as well. I decogged one yesterday ended up fitting the little well worn grinder blade just inbetween each pole which could grind two poles at a time and get more consistent angle. Each pole has a slight triangle slopping point. Bit like the point of a roof on a house then i just knocked the point down a fraction. Will do the second one today! I'm down to configuring the stator rewiring and after going through that thread above was wandering if there was any updates or how it went? This Turbine will go on a windmill, at this time am considering putting it on the top of a shipping container unit that it will supply the power to. Some have said i should do 48V, I'd like the ability for it to do 12V to as it's common. I'm about to dive in and begin rewiring. This is my yearly wind averages for my area. I'm not sure what sense to make of it in terms of what configuration to rewire the stators based on Wind speed in my area? Also wouldn't happen to be any notes or files laying around illustrating the dual Mill construction, measurements, instructions etc.?? |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
Bit hard to tell by comparing the photos by the real thing in the F&P series but i think I've got an 80 series. Since fiddling around today i got the second stator decogged. Though they spin much easier i thought they would spin pretty much freely. Wish my camera batteries didn't fail me today want to show a pic of the two F&P joined on the existing original spline. It's got the white slat like plastic which came with the second hand F&P that's been cut off in a square and slipped on the shaft it's got the four bolts that bolt the stator onto it with the bearings embedded in the white plastic. I can't see why i could not bolt a horse shoe strap over the white plastic along the spline covering the them securing it to a metal plate mounting bracket and not have to do all the fancy welding to make the other mount. The two F&P motors and apparatus fits nicely back to back onto the one original spline with nothing having to be adapted or done. And i think there might just be enough room to bolt a hub onto it. |
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Downwind Guru  Joined: 09/09/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2333 |
You say to knock the peak off the stator after decogging??? This would widen the air gap between the stator and the magnets and will decrease to output slightly. Your horse shoe bracket might be ok, but don't underestimate the power of the wind or the forces applied to this bearing mount, many a mill has failed by short cuts in the design. As for not spinning freely .......have you removed the black seal from one end of the bearing block. (you need to) Pete. Sometimes it just works |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
Just a quick once at three angles to give the angle a slight round. Bugger! I thought the idea was to create a slightly more gap to get it to spin better though for one i didn't touch the highest point it hasn't turned as good. And the other only ever so slightly. [quote=Downwind]Your horse shoe bracket might be ok, but don't underestimate the power of the wind or the forces applied to this bearing mount, many a mill has failed by short cuts in the design.[/quote]Mmmm, OK i don't want it to break could get it welded into some square after testing it perhaps. [quote=Downwind]As for not spinning freely .......have you removed the black seal from one end of the bearing block. (you need to)[/quote]Haven't heard of that... is it the black rubber around the spline that has a little spring like band around the rubber holding onto the spline attached embedded in the white plastic. If not no i haven't taken them out. I think this must be it because the bearing block hhas just a steal bearing opening at the other end! |
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| Downwind Guru Joined: 09/09/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2333 |
Yes, get a screwdriver and flick the seal out, it will make a sh*t load of difference. The idea of decogging is to change the surface area that is close to the magnets and not the gap to the magnets. By doming the laminations reduces the surface area but the centre of the laminations should remain untouched. The wider the air gap the easier it will spin but the lower the performance. For one of mine i pressed the bearing block into a section of square tube and filled any void areas with resin (fiberglass) this worked well. Note:- i had welded the mounts onto the square tube before fitting the bearing block and resin. (heat and plastic are not a good mix) Pete. Sometimes it just works |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
Hey that done the trick those suckers pop out like a bottle & cork. That's freed them up, one is particularly flowing freely but the other one seems to have a light grinding while turning at one point. Cancel that i just discovered that if it's changed to the other end it spins correctly, so it's because it does get enough meat on the spline to line it up properly causing a little wobble at times. I could either cut the plastic but it will compromise the strength of the plastic block strength. |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
I was thinking the exact same thing, but wouldn't have picked up on the melting thing. I was wandering if the bearing block could be used as the bearings that means i could cut them. better get the grinder out a lop a bit of plastic off the sucker so i don;t have to extend the spline. |
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| Downwind Guru Joined: 09/09/2009 Location: AustraliaPosts: 2333 |
[quote]I was wandering if the bearing block could be used as the bearings that means i could cut them. [/quote] No idea of what you mean here, and the last thing you would want to do is cut the bearing block. The reason why they scrape is there is nothing to align the stator to the bearing block on the other end to keep it central If you take a careful look at the correct end you will find the stator locates on a ring but has nothing the other end. Look long and think twice before grinding is my advice as you can stuff it up quickly and then what do you do?? Pete. Ps. where do you intend to mount your blades if you use both splines??????? Sometimes it just works |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
I was going to buy a set of 11 Raptor blades but they tell me they wont spin a F&P and def won;t spin two, so I'm to a lose what I'm going to do for blades yet.. There is about 1 inch at the end of one spline with thread that might get a hub bolted on. |
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shawn Senior Member Joined: 30/03/2010 Location: New ZealandPosts: 210 |
Hi hope this might help I drilled out the plastic magnet hub and put a keyway in. 
then just cut off one spline for the blade mount. and my hub. 
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
What sort of blade would you suggest to purchase, i think i want a fully made set ready to bolt on. If i have to extend the spline then i will get an engineer to weld it since i don't have the stuff here and it will need to be dead straight. |
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| Jaffasoft Senior Member Joined: 03/11/2010 Location: AustraliaPosts: 102 |
Thanks for the photos Shawn i will have a good study of them. I'm a bit stalled on this now till i work out what to do and ive got to get the bloody things rewired to, wish i had of paid the $40 extra now it would have been worth it and a bit quicker. |
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| shawn Senior Member Joined: 30/03/2010 Location: New ZealandPosts: 210 |
I would not recomend welding any part of your shaft use what you have, cut it ok,extend spline not my way but also ok, but keep that welder away from it. |
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