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Forum Index : Windmills : So, how would you go about removing the stock magnets from the rotor?

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Kamak
Senior Member

Joined: 13/04/2021
Location: Canada
Posts: 150

Posted: 02:56am 23 Apr 2021

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Here's my idea. First, my rotors are metal, with a bit of plastic hub with a metal spline ring for the shaft retention.

I want to heat the epoxy adhesive, but without damaging the hub. I think I will try surrounding the hub with ice and running water, while I spin and heat the outer most rim, where the magnets are held. If I do it fast enough, it should work before the heat overcomes the cooling method.

Edited 2021-04-23 12:57 by Kamak

brucedownunder2
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Joined: 14/09/2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 1548

Posted: 11:43pm 26 Apr 2021

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I think from memory, I just used a 1 inch wide chisel, knowing it would be damaged in the process, --and just start with getting the edge of the first magnet and ,you'll probably damage it ,getting it "unstuck" ..

Now it's fairly straight forward , you find they come off fairly well undamaged ... I did a few rotors with the factory fitted ordinary magnets this way.

fitting the NEO's . I think I used cut matchsticks or fairly even chopsticks cut into handy lengths to seperate the NEO's while setting them up -Can't remember now, but rubber gloves and a drop of super glue to fix them helps.. Then some epoxy and talc power or baby powder. (from my sailing boat building days) you can mix it to your own consistency.

Oh, measure around the internal circumference carefully first ,then divide the width of the magnets and space them.

OH Hang ON ,, I might have my memory out of whack a bit there---- think you have to do a bit of fiddling around the lining up with the poles in the stator --too far back for my memory, these days , I'm 76 , that was 30 years back.

Anyhow , you'll get the drift , sooner or later ,lol.

Bruce

Bushboy

Kamak
Senior Member

Joined: 13/04/2021
Location: Canada
Posts: 150

Posted: 12:36am 27 Apr 2021

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Thanks for the tips. I might just try that. These are metal rotors, so I wasn't too worried about using heat to remove them, other than the bit of plastic at the hub.

As for the spacing, yes it does have to be precise with relation to the windings, evenness, and number of pole pairs. there are 24 pole pairs on these rotors (48 mags in total), with 36 total windings of 12/leg x3 so I'll probably stick with that, but as long as the pole pairs aline with the common winding of each leg throughout rotation it'll work, just creates a different freq.

Cheers,

Mike C

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