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Forum Index : Microcontroller and PC projects : (MM) Keep blowing up Keyboards...

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MM_Wombat
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Joined: 12/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 139
Posted: 06:46am 09 Jan 2012
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Hi,

My MM keeps blowing up keyboards.

They work ok for a few days , then they don't work anymore. I disconnect the power before removing / inserting. What is the problem? PS2 keyborad--- not usb with ps2 adapter.



Any help would be great...

Wombat
Keep plugging away, it is fun learning
But can be expensive (if you keep blowing things up).

Maximite, ColourMaximite, MM+
 
bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 06:55am 09 Jan 2012
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  MM_Wombat said   Hi,

My MM keeps blowing up keyboards.

They work ok for a few days , then they don't work anymore. I disconnect the power before removing / inserting. What is the problem? PS2 keyborad--- not usb with ps2 adapter.



Any help would be great...

Wombat


Hi Wombat,

Please check the voltage on the K/B... it should be 5V....

Maybe you have a filter cap backwards in the power supply area...

Is it an ALtronics kit?

If it is I would suspect C13 or C1.... maybe your power pack has not good filtering inside... I assume that you are using an external pack as there is not much that could kill your keyboard if powered by USB...

Try adding 1000uF cap across C13.

Regards,

Mick


Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
MM_Wombat
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Joined: 12/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 139
Posted: 07:09am 09 Jan 2012
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Voltage at keyboard connector on pins 3 & 4 was 4.53 V from 9V regulated(kit #3220)

Yes Is is an altronics kit

EDIT :- Using the power pack I had plugged in last time, measures 6.1V at pins 3 & 4
Edited by MM_Wombat 2012-01-10
Keep plugging away, it is fun learning
But can be expensive (if you keep blowing things up).

Maximite, ColourMaximite, MM+
 
donmck

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Joined: 09/06/2011
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Posts: 1313
Posted: 09:09am 09 Jan 2012
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  MM_Wombat said   Voltage at keyboard connector on pins 3 & 4 was 4.53 V from 9V regulated(kit #3220)

Yes Is is an altronics kit

EDIT :- Using the power pack I had plugged in last time, measures 6.1V at pins 3 & 4


Ouch, that will possibly kill it.
Check what Mick suggested. You should never have 6V at the keyboard.
Should be 5V at the output of IC3, and of course 3.3V at the output of IC2.

IC2 sounds like it is saving your PIC32 from blowing up.

Try the link to power the unit up from USB, and check the voltage at 3 and 4 of the keyboard. If it is 5V instead of 6.1, then it is in the 7805 area.

Cheers Don...




https://www.dontronics.com
 
bigmik

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Posted: 09:34am 09 Jan 2012
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  MM_Wombat said  
Yes Is is an altronics kit

EDIT :- Using the power pack I had plugged in last time, measures 6.1V at pins 3 & 4


There is the problem..... now to find the cause...

I suggest C13 or C1 is soldered in backwards... check the polarity.. If they look ok they could be either faulty or most likely the Power supply you are using has not got enough filtering built in or worse it is actually 9V AC output.

Regards,

Mick


Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
MM_Wombat
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Joined: 12/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 139
Posted: 01:06am 10 Jan 2012
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I checked all the polarized capacitors, at C1 , C7 and C5. All of them have the +ve leg in the hole marked +.

as per the picture..



The 7805 looks a little tarnished, should it be replaced...?

Cheers
Wombat

Keep plugging away, it is fun learning
But can be expensive (if you keep blowing things up).

Maximite, ColourMaximite, MM+
 
djuqa

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Joined: 23/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 447
Posted: 02:33am 10 Jan 2012
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Are you still using that altronics 3220 Reg. kit to power the MM?
If so is the Plugpack supplying the input to the Kit DC?

As others have suggested 7805 may be cooked/shorted internally .
5.0V should be output from it if it is working correctly and supplied with a GOOD DC source of Approx 7V or more.
Not 6.1v or 4.53v, both of these indicates something WRONG with the 5v Rail derived from the 7805.




Edited by djuqa 2012-01-11
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Gizmo

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Joined: 05/06/2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 5078
Posted: 02:54am 10 Jan 2012
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Yes I agree, replace the 7805

I built a Piclog with a free standing 7805 that didn't have a heat sink, and it was run on 24 volts for a while. The platic case near the 7805 showed signs of heat, and the 7805 output voltage was way off. Replacing it fixed the problem.

Glenn
The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, the second best time is right now.
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bigmik

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Joined: 20/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 2914
Posted: 03:52am 10 Jan 2012
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  MM_Wombat said   I checked all the polarized capacitors, at C1 , C7 and C5. All of them have the +ve leg in the hole marked +.

as per the picture..

[
The 7805 looks a little tarnished, should it be replaced...?

Cheers
Wombat


Hmm, As I dont have an Altronics MM, I went by the schematic on Page 33 of the Silicon Chip artical which has C13 (not marked as C13) as 330uf, the same Capacitor on the schematic for MM from Geoff has it as 330nF (0.33uf)... Looking at your picture it is obvious the part supplied is the (0.33uF) nonpolarised part...

Not sure which is the correct but personally I dont think there is enough filtering if C13 is 330nF... given that many DC plug packs are not well filtered.. I reckon this is your problem... your plug pack that is used is either a poor filtered version or worse is an AC plug plack and in either case it looks like your 7805 is cooked...

Regards,

Mick


Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
bigmik

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Posts: 2914
Posted: 03:54am 10 Jan 2012
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Sorry I tried to do an edit to fix my spelling errors and did a quote..

Ignore this post please

Edited by bigmik 2012-01-11
Mick's uMite Stuff can be found >>> HERE (Kindly hosted by Dontronics) <<<
 
BobD

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Joined: 07/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 935
Posted: 06:23am 10 Jan 2012
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  MM_Wombat said   I checked all the polarized capacitors, at C1 , C7 and C5. All of them have the +ve leg in the hole marked +.

The 7805 looks a little tarnished, should it be replaced...?

Cheers
Wombat

I had a look at my MM and the components look like they are all in the right positions. I suspect your trouble comes from what you mention in your previous thread (MM - DM) Computer PSU for Power several days back. The supplies being unregulated were feeding as much as 14.8 volts to the 7805. Judging by the colour of it in your photo it may now have a problem.
 
ajkw
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Joined: 29/06/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 290
Posted: 10:02am 10 Jan 2012
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M'mmm, I didn't get heatsinks with mine so I made a couple. Mine runs off 12V and this arrangement keeps the reg's cool enough. I cut them from Aluminium sheet, note it is rather important that they do not touch each other.

Cheers,
Anthony.





 
BobD

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Posted: 07:48am 11 Jan 2012
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  ajkw said   M'mmm, I didn't get heatsinks with mine so I made a couple. Mine runs off 12V and this arrangement keeps the reg's cool enough. I cut them from Aluminium sheet, note it is rather important that they do not touch each other.

Cheers,
Anthony.


Anthony
I am interested in that audio device sitting on your MM. Can you provide some details about it and that small driver board that seems to go with it.
Bob
 
ajkw
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Joined: 29/06/2011
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Posts: 290
Posted: 09:19am 11 Jan 2012
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Bob,

The speaker is a transducer speaker not a piezo, I think I got it at Jaycar, see AB3440. It wasn't very loud connecting it straight to the Maximite audio out so I had to replace the resistors in-between with links. Works ok but has a very variable frequency response curve. It certainly does add sound however.

The driver board is not related to the speaker but is my RTC based on a DS1302 chip. You can also see the CR2 battery for it's backup supply. Works very well. I can supply more details if required.


Cheers,
Anthony.

Edited by ajkw 2012-01-12
 
BobD

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Posts: 935
Posted: 09:51am 11 Jan 2012
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  ajkw said   Bob,

The speaker is a transducer speaker not a piezo, I think I got it at Jaycar, see AB3440. It wasn't very loud connecting it straight to the Maximite audio out so I had to replace the resistors in-between with links. Works ok but has a very variable frequency response curve. It certainly does add sound however.

The driver board is not related to the speaker but is my RTC based on a DS1302 chip. You can see the CR2 battery also for it's backup supply. Works very well. I can supply more details if required.


Cheers,
Anthony.


Thanks for the info about the speaker. I have a ChronoDot V2.1 High Precision RTC on the way for use as my clock. I may ask you more about your program to run the clock when I get mine connected. This one uses an I2C connection. Does your one?
 
MM_Wombat
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Joined: 12/12/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 139
Posted: 04:51am 12 Jan 2012
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Ok

Thanks for the input , to all those that contributed.

I have replaced the 7805, and am using that pesky powerpack to power the voltage regulator (altronics kit #3220) and the maximite doesn't get hot, the voltage regulator doesn't get hot, and my keyboard has survived for another day..

Maximite was running all day, performing admirably, on the spi 7 segment led project..



Cheers
Wombat
Keep plugging away, it is fun learning
But can be expensive (if you keep blowing things up).

Maximite, ColourMaximite, MM+
 
centrex

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Joined: 13/11/2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 320
Posted: 07:41am 12 Jan 2012
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For BobD
Go back to the very last post in the url below, you will find all the time keeping software you are ever likely to need and it all runs on a Maximite.
http://www.thebackshed.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4421&PN =3

regards
cliff
Cliff
 
BobD

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Posted: 08:11am 12 Jan 2012
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Thanks for that info Cliff I'll have a look.
Bob
 
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