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adric22 Regular Member
Joined: 06/08/2008 Location: United StatesPosts: 47 |
Posted: 04:24am 24 Aug 2008 |
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I bought some small 5W panels I'm going to use to power some attic fans. Trouble is, I'm not sure how to mount them to the roof. I am afraid if I send a screw through the shingles, that it will cause a leak. |
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Marcus20VT Regular Member
Joined: 02/09/2008 Location: WalesPosts: 49 |
Posted: 06:13pm 13 Sep 2008 |
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Hey adric - I've just mounted my 12W panel today (after months of having it propped up against the shed, and a welcome break in the weather!)
I mounted 2 battons onto the roof via screws and siliconed all around the batton - I also put a dab of silicon on each screw.
Then simply mount the panel to the batons, without using screws too long that they would go through the batton - if that makes sense!
Have fun! |
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Gill
Senior Member
Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
Posted: 01:23am 14 Sep 2008 |
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G'day adric22,
You don't say how many panels to give an idea of size and possible wind loadings.
As the panels are very small, use battens as Marcus suggests but just Sikaflex-291 (marine grade adhesive/sealant/bedding compound) them to the tiles. No holes at all, and if you need to remove them later for an upgrade, cut between the batten with a filleting knife(long thin flexible blade) or hacksaw blade. So leave a thickish layer between the batten and tile. Do not squish most of the adhesive out when mounting battens.
Some of the smaller panels do not come with a mounting facility or brackets so again use Sikaflex. A thick dob in each corner does the trick. Again do not squash it down against the batten but leave a thick layer for later removal.
Beeuuuudifull! was working fine... til the smoke got out.
Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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Robb Senior Member
Joined: 01/08/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 221 |
Posted: 06:39am 14 Sep 2008 |
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Shingles are wood right???? Wood that shrinks and expands with rain and sun. Wood that can split.
I don't think the rules for shingles would be the same as tiles. |
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Gill
Senior Member
Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
Posted: 09:26am 14 Sep 2008 |
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G'day Robb,
I'm sorry mate, you seem to be raising a criticism but I'm a bit slow I guess because I don't see what it is. You say shingles are not same as tiles.
OK, So what are the rules for shingles that do not apply to tiles as it applies to the suggestions so far?
What is your better recommendation to correct whatever downfall it is you see in the previous replies?
Please help me understand. was working fine... til the smoke got out.
Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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Marcus20VT Regular Member
Joined: 02/09/2008 Location: WalesPosts: 49 |
Posted: 10:34am 14 Sep 2008 |
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Sikaflex-291
Hey - I never thought of anything like that (Derr!)
Gripfill would also work a treat, but it might be difficult to remove. However, if you just gripfill the battons, then Bob's your auntie's live in lover! |
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Robb Senior Member
Joined: 01/08/2007 Location: AustraliaPosts: 221 |
Posted: 05:48am 17 Sep 2008 |
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Firstly Gill if that was taken as offensive I apoligise. Basicly I was trying to help.
As I see it (and I'm open to correction)
Tiles:- are heavy
- long lasting
- have minimal warpage with water
- offer a reliable surface to glue to
Shingles:- will rot
- will warp
- are not heavy
- will allow water congrigate & rot the wood under the area covered buy glue
- may leak or split if drilled
The iron roof on my house did >65 years prior to replacement. I think iron would be a good starting point.
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Gill
Senior Member
Joined: 11/11/2006 Location: AustraliaPosts: 669 |
Posted: 10:27am 17 Sep 2008 |
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Robb,
Good one now, I just didn't know where you were going with that post. It didn't make sense for me, as I said.
I guess Marcus will take all points raised on board then deciding. He's probably combined suggestions and welded them on already. Ha.ha!
was working fine... til the smoke got out.
Cheers Gill _Cairns, FNQ |
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